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I know it's not on anyone's must-do list when in Bamberg, but it looks like the Bamberger Weissbierhaus has received a refurb and re-opened last month.
Was there accommodation before? That might be interesting for some people, if price is more important than luxury (not all the rooms are en-suite).
I've stayed there before. Very nice and the lack of an en suite didn't really seem to be an issue for a couple of nights.
Stayed here a couple of times back in the very early 90s. Lack of ensuite was definitely an issue when it was -5C outside!
Had the worst pint Ive ever had in Bamberg here just before it closed(Mahrs U or it could have been dishwater, hard to tell).
Hopefully will be better now. May check it put tomorrow!o
So, I won't bore everyone with a long winded report on Munich, I'm sure everyone has been and had a beer in most of the obvious places. I'll just recount a few observations on the city from a beer point of view as I found it.
In general, I found the beers from the outlying towns to be better than the Munich city ones (Tegernseer, Schneider, Ayinger, Andechs). Getting Weissbier out the way, I still have a softspot for Schneider Original (Schneider Braeuhaus Muenchen) although the first mouthful of the Tegernseer Weissbier (Hirschgarten) was very moreish and had less ferocious carbonation (wonder who makes it).
Of the Munich beers, I really didn't get on with Augustiner beers or their pubs and Keller and their staff were uniformly appalling! Bizarrely, my top Munich beer was HB. My only Paulaner experience was Paulaner am Nockherberg where the beers were very dull with the exception of the Roggen which was really rather good.
Franken connection, at Meisterstuck I had a Zirndorfer Kellerbier (I know) and it made me think they make their own Weissbier as the Kellerbier highlighted why it's not a good idea as it tasted infected with Weissbier yeast. That or the beer line was infected but it didn't weem the kind of place to let that go unnoticed.
Zirndorfer Bier is brewed at Tücher. I wouldn’t touch it, but I’m a bit snobby in that way, and i have many, many other choices.
In all honesty I wasn't listening properly, I heard "Kellerbier" and said yes. Especially as there were better options on offer, especially from the next door brewery.
Just to clarify that: The Zirndorfer range is brewed at Brauerei Zirndorf which belongs to Tucher Brau Holding. But it's a way way smaller brewery than the monster at Fürth.
The dark Kellerbier was undrinkable, the regular lager was not the worst beer in the world.
An ex-colleague of mine in Oregon was in the army, stationed in Zirndorf back in the day. When I announced I was leaving Oregon for near Nuremberg, he asked if I could send him some Zirndorfer beer and a Krug. I did, eventually. I have a bit of a soft spot for it because of that.
I quite enjoyed the Augustiner but found it difficult to ever get a full glass! It seemed almost always to be at least a centimetre below the line and the issue was endemic in Augustiner places, much worse than anywhere else.
Don't think I'll be going soon.
Just be glad you don't live in the US !
You don't even know how big the beer is; many beers are sold as "regular", "large", etc.
No content lines; imitation pint glasses only containing 14 oz; no regulation on liquid level or head size, and prices on the rise.
Thank goodness I'm a homebrewer !
No offence to all my lovely US friends, I am glad that I don't live in the USA.
None taken. Like I've said before. It's not as bad as you may think nor as bad as some make it out to be. There is a really wonderful, dynamic, and ever changing beer culture here. Some it is shite but there are some real gems. We've got our problems but then again who doesn't (Brexit anyone?). I've got a very nice life here on Cape Cod. Beaches, golf courses, good beer and a couple nice local breweries, and direct flights from Boston to Europe.
All that said I have to agree with you. If I lived in Europe I'd not pine for living in the USA. I do love Europe and it's beer culture among other things after all. There is a reason I'm here on this forum for so long.
And just to clarify my love of Europe goes way back before my love of Franconian beer. I was always fascinated by the history, culture, and geography of Europe since I was very young and read often about it and studied the maps, etc. I'm glad I finally arranged my life in a way that I can visit often and i'm fortunate to be able to do so. My family sometimes asks me why I just don't move there. Well I like it here too and I'm happy here and family and most of my friends are here. I get the best of both worlds. I can't wait to be back in Franken in July and will be in Switzerland this year for New Years Eve to celebrate with my Hamburger friends.
I understand what you say Mark. We owe Fred a big vote of thanks that he's managed in some strange way to unite both sides of the pond.
Cheers to Fred
I’m still rather uncomfortable with making sweeping statements about somewhere I haven’t been. I had a great time in the US some years’ago.
The older I get the more I realise that being open minded is one of the best attributes any person can possess, and I’m determined to hone it.
I'm glad that you're so impressed with my being open minded - the feeling is mutual.
But ... I've also realised that a person can't just be a blank sheet of paper, waiting for others to write their opinions on; you've also got to have some views of your own, some principles, whatever, be prepared to state and defend them (politely) and then accept that it is possible to be wrong!
These OT's are getting to be philosophical discussions. Many apologies, Fred, try to stick to beer and Franken iin future. The forthcoming gathering at the end of July should provide loads and loads of copy.
Whilst the core of discussion is always going to be "Frankenbier" related, the breadth of discussion is one of the things that keeps us all interested. :)
Like a virtual Stammtisch.
Nice to learn that about you, Mark. If you don't mind my saying so, it's a bit of a surprise, that you had the interest in Europe prior to being bitten by the beer bug. I wouldn't say that I was the opposite, but I never thought about *visiting* here until my thirties, when I had already been bitten by the Belgian beer bug...our first trips over were to Belgium & the NL...is that other discussion board still active, I wonder?
As I got more and more worked up about politics (!) around the turn of the century, our move to Europe came at a very nice time. Once we got over here, I managed to detach completely from American politics. I suddenly couldn't be bothered to care about it any more. That served to be a big ... relief. It was facilitated in big part by complete immersion in learning the language and making friends and contacts over here.
And no American TV. German TV is fantastic in comparison, especially for those learning the language. The history of German TV is sort of opposite to that of American, with it having started out as a state-funded thingie, more or less. Think of having regional, well-funded PBS channels first, with the likes of ABC, CBS, NBC, et al, having only sprung up since the 70s (right Gerhard?) with the advent of cable. Documentaries up the ying-ying. Even the amateur cooking shows are done seriously...like Come Dine With Me done seriously without hijinks.
Not like any of youse would spend your time sitting around in front of the tube if you moved here. Though...you might spend some, eventually. Once you turn 40 or so, moving house and making friends becomes more challenging. My German teacher, Marc, my age, told me that. I was 39 when we moved here, and the friends I left behind in OR were all basically beer drinking and homebrewing friends. And I'd only been living there for 11 years, spread over three different locations. My point is, I've moved around a lot, my whole life, even going back to childhood. I don't have even any friends left from high school, save one, and I've not been in contact with him in over 20 years.
What I'm leading up to, Mark, is, it's good that you're grateful for your situation. It sounds wonderful, except for being surrounded by M@ssh0le$ all the time. (Joke...I like New Yorkers and New Englanders more than most other Americans; they have their own distinct ways of being, unique among Americans.)
The west has the landscapes and geography, the east has the best people. Though, last year, I had occasion to get to know and spend time with quite a few people from "the jungle" of south central Los Angeles. If you'd told me two years ago that I would go from being a married, 50-something part-time English teacher in Germany, to being a friend and companion of economically dis-advantaged young single mothers from Rodney King's neighborhood, I'd have thought you were a looney.
Also being befriended by hardened career criminals and sitting in a notorious jail for 2-1/2 weeks...that was a surprise. A learning experience. Humbling. Not as humbling as nearly dying from pneumonia though. Germany is a good place to get sick and land in hospital. They typically send an actual doctor out with an ambulance, also in a seperate car. The food though...I need to write up a report on my experience with hospital food and nutritionists.
Friends and family are nice to have. I'm slogging through a lack of both at the current time, but it's kind of how I grew up. Onward and upward. Mid-life crises!
I'm sticking here for a while, at least through the autumn. Life in the US is too...Koyaanisqatsi. Have to find a new career though, and one downside to German life is their tendency to view 50 as the cutoff age for hireability. I could theoretically go back to programming, but it's been 15 years. I'm a bit too young to "retire".
Back to your Thursday morning...
No the Burgundian Babble Belt message board is no longer active. Not that I ever posted there but I did read it once in a while. It's a testament to this message board and it's longetivity. I think this is the longest running, active, internet message board I've ever been a part of. It's amazing that it goes all the way back to 2002 and i've been on here since 2007.
Yeah my love of European history goes all the way back to when I was probably 6 or 7 years old and developed a fascination with WWII which then branched out as I got older into many other periods and events in time from the Roman Empire onward. My parents and friends had trouble tearing me away on weekends from my books and maps and wargames. So discovering the great beer cultures of Franconia, Czech Republic, UK, and even Belgium once has been really nice icing on the cake and a great excuse to keep going back.
BTW, The Burgundian Babble Belt does continue to exist on Facebook -- It may be a closed group but I think I can issue invites. I copied the design of this board from theirs. The biggest advantage I see is that older topics that aren't commented on tend to scroll of the main page so if you want to open an old argument you have to make the effort to start a new thread -- and most of the time we seem to say "it's not worth the effort"
At risk of sounding pretentious, a Forum such as ours (I know that it's Fred's really but we mere contributers have made an attempt at colonisation!), and others like it, have made a huge contribution to developing understanding between people of different cultures.
There is no better way of dispelling myths about people from other countries and cultures than a discussion over a pint, seidla, whatever of good beer!
Great report! I was also in Munich last week instead of Franken. First we traveled to Andechs. Great views, lovely monastery and good beer. Secondly, it was Munich where we visited most places. I agree with you when you say that HB had good beer. Several of my followers commented on that. Paulans disappoint, Scheinder was amazing, Augustiner impressed. Finally we traveled to Weihenstepan which was very good, both food, beer and location with views. But will I go back? Hardly, next time it will be Franconia.
Off topic posts are find so long as they are generally related to beer. And leeway is granted to long time contributors who inform us about major happenings in their lives. Other than that, please remove the conversation to email, Facebook, shouting out the window -- that is, some other forum.
Oh good. I think that I may be classified as a major contributor, so I'll now start relating all the interesting things about my life. Or maybe not.
Sorry Fred, couldn't resist, but will heed the warning. Where are you going next?
The main thing I'd like to hear from you, Barry, is where you are finding FeWos at the best prices...IIRC, you were finding them at websites for the various villages in which you stayed. I would imagine I'm not the only one on here (active or lurking) that would find that of interest, even helpful. I believe Frank Wetzel's place is pretty well known, but the number of people interested in staying outside of Bamberg might be greater than zero.
Heck...I THINK I recall Brauerei Witzgall having a room upstairs. THAT would be cool. Nowadays, I need a kitchenette. And of course, dog-friendly.
If I ever get my Toyota situation sorted out, I hope to tour around in it, maybe also with a tiny caravan in tow. I do remember seeing some parked at Roppelt (Stiebarlimbach) in the past. There was a delapidated one parked near our home in Erlangen for a year or two, right there on a street. I guess that means it's not illegal to do that there, at least. Not that anyone in their right mind should want to overnight in Erlangen...
It's not very complicated! Early on in our visits to Franken, I twigged that getting to many rural pubs was difficult. Fred has often warned of the difficulties of local bus services, many of which are really there to serve schools and, therefore, only available during term-time (which can be a bit unpredictable) and during the day, when many local Wirtshausen (correct?) are not open.
So, I started looking at towns that were on the main north-south rail line, as the service is, generally, quite good (you could link it with the branch lines like the ones to Ebermannstadt and Ebern). Then I looked at the town's websites and found that many had tourists guides, with accommodation and - bingo - the problem was on the way to being solved (Oh no - now you're all going to be doing this!). Bamberg was and is a problem: I've stayed at many places in the city and they are uniformerly expensive, if you intend to stay for longer than a few days (remember that I was and am an impecunious pensioner - stop laughing there). I partially solved the problem by staying in Drosendorf a couple of times but the bus service finishes around 19.30, which is why I've spent a lot of time in Goeller and walked up and down to Merkendorf many times.
So, I stayed in Drosendorf, Buttenheim, Seigendorf (near Hirschaid but up a big hill past the Hirschaada Keller - never stayed in Hirschaid, as the Fewo's were a bit pricey) and Forchheim (lovely but also a bit pricey) before I ound Ebensfeld, which is only 18 minutes from Bamberg by train, has lots of quite reasonably priced and good Fewo's and had a nice Stube (closed again now) and very nice Keller.
It sometimes means that you spend a fair bit of time in one Stube but that can be interesting and you have to be sure that you're going to like it (we thought Loewenbrau in Buttenheim was great - good beer and very friendly - and packed most nights!).
I'm not sure how dog friendly these places are - I suppose it varies from place to place. I'm an animal lover (possibly the only person on the Forum who chooses not to eat them) but, personally, I wouldn't choose to stay in a place that's animal friendly (inside the apartment) because I don't think that you can ever really get rid of the smell and, if it isn't your animal, it's not that appealing - whether it be dog, cat, alligator, possum, or whatever. Just my personal choice - if it's your animal in your home, I take a different point of view. Lots of my friends and family have animals and I'm happy to stay with them (this is not meant as a big hint!).
Schlammersdorf wouldn't be great choice because you're a fair way from the railway and the 265 bus doesn't run that late. It's a fair walk to Eggolsheim and not so many trains stop there.
It's easy really, if you take a bit of time.
BTW: I have abandoned my German conversation class. Not getting anywhere, I'm afraid. Sorry, my old brain just couldn't cope. Switched to gypsy jazz guitar instead. Is this progress?
Just planning our upcoming trip. I had the idea to do a walk Breitelesau-Waischenfeld-Nankendorf-Breitenlesau. Unfortunately the bus times dont work for Waischenfeld(bus arrives Breitenlesau 1130ish, Waischenfeld closes 12, bus leaves 1615ish, Waischenfeld opens again 1630). Am I missing something? Has anyone managed to visit Waischenfeld this way?
Wed also stop in Heiligenstadt on the way from Brietenlesau to Ebermannstadt.
I presume that's a Saturday? Looks right to me. I have never been to Waischenfeld without a bike or car. It's not a place i'd want to be stuck wanting for public transport. Best bet is to find some accomodation in Waischenfeld, it's reasonable enough and surprisingly touristy.
Weekend yes. Would be fine if they were open in the afternoon, but, hey, thats Franconia. Sure I'll get there one day, staying over in Waischenfeld would be fun and would mean we could have a proper drink there, rather than an hour and on to the next place.
Nothing, no information at all, can be found in the web about this brewery... Just the adress is indicated (Schmiedsgasse 3)... Does anybody know, if this only a "fake" or a real existing brewery?
I already posted the story of this little brewery further down. It is indeed an existing brewery and the new project of Andreas Falk who formerly ran Brauhaus Rothenburg. The beer is great and there's one historical pub in town, that sells the beer straight from the cask. But it's open only on Fridays. The brewery's open all the time and you can pop in, have a chat with Andi and buy bottled beer.
Schönen Dank! Cheers!
Juergen: I'm pretty sure that I remember going through Wolfram-Eschenbach during one of our beer tours, a couple of years ago (I think that we were on our way to Tirschenreuth, bars in quarries, etc.!). It had a large building that I think you said was used for storing hops or something like that? Of course, its congruity to the name of a town in the Oberpfalz stuck in my mind!
I remember that it looked a lovely place - well worth a longer visit one day!
Funnliy enough, my parents managed to inadvertantly visit on the weekend. They had mentioned a place we'd been before that they wanted to visit - Merkendorf. Assuming they would know I wouldn't drive over an hour past Nuremberg, I didn't clarify anything more. They put it into the Satnav and set off to visit Merkendorf (neben Wolframs. E), not Memmelsdorf.
They said they enjoyed their visit, it was indeed a nice town, and had a nice meal in a local restaurant in Wolframs Eschenbach as there was a fest going on in (the other) Merkendorf and it was too busy.
And I haven't even visited yet!
Lol!as they say in young parlance. love the story Jason.
So, in a few weeks time I'll finally will do another trip through Franconia. And excitingly a brewer friend is accompaying me. I've noticed him struggle with the low bitterness to malt sweetness and softness in some of the Franconian beers before (think ie. Monchsambacher or Heckel) and want to combine that with visit a few new breweries. Think of beers like Witzgall, Roppelt, Hartleb, Knoblach, Griess or even Gradl and Scharpf.
Any particular recommendations?
Region doesn't matter. Thank you!
Would said brewer be one a little too heavily influenced by American-style IPAs, whether West Coast, New England, or other? Time to broaden one's horizons and realize not all beers are hop bombs, nor is that part of the tradition in some parts of the brewing world. I'll leave milkshake IPA and pastry stout to the New World brewers.
Otherwise, you're looking for something from Gänstaller's range or maybe the MainSeidla/Binkert beers. Some of those qualify as more hop-forward. There are numerous other German brewers who've opted for beers broadly termed "Craft Bier," and specialist bars have sprung up here and there in Germany, mostly in bigger cities like Köln, Düsseldorf, Berlin, and München... or to the east in Prague.
Also, some of Düsseldorf's Altbier, particularly Uerige, has more hop focus as well.
They certainly have sprung up in Prague, to the point that, sometimes, it's difficult to find a lager in them.
The reaction to the new wave of beers (the US style IPA's etc.) is interesting, though my range of personal connections is a bit limited to my home area. My regular drinking companions tend to be of my approximate vintage (let's say 65+, though older in some cases!). Generally, they (and me) prefer beers that might be though of as traditional English, such best bitters, rather than the extreme hoppy types. It's the balance of malt and hops in such beers that is the attraction.
A number of my friends from the Franken forum are from the USA, where the IPA revolution has been ongoing for some time. Not surprisingly, they find easy acceptance with the sort of beers that are predominating in the new bars in Prague, though are revered founder, although happy to drink the IPAs, names the Fabian and Uneticke beers as his favourites (or, at least, near the top of the list?), Perhpaps it is because he is fringing into my/our age group (apologies Fred).
A few local surprises this week: yesterday's visit to the Albion, Conwy, found that nearly all the beers were of retatively strength, with at least half under 4% and none over 5% - lovely! Second came whilst talking to the proprietor of the Bay Hop, Chris. I was trying a stout from Big Hand (Black Knight, which was quite good) and asked him about the growing number of darker beers on sale. He, and his assistant, Tom, both like these beers and he informed me that they were much in favour with the younger element - interesting. Back to the Albion: a chap came in looking for draught Guinness, which, of course, is not sold in the Albion. Between Rhian (barmaid) and myself, we persuaded him to try a cask stout (it was Snowdon Nomad at 3.8% - I tried it later and it was good) and he rather reluctantly agreed. The good news was that he really liked it. Maybe it will tempt him away from the dreaded nitro-keg stuff in future - one can only hope!
Well being one of your Franken forum friends from the USA that was just in Prague I'll also chime in. Just like Fred and you Uneticke is one of my favorites among other traditional styles in Prague (Vinohradsky lagers, Hostomice, PU, etc.). I go there to drink those beers and indeed with probably the one exception (a Matuska Raptor IPA) that is all I drank.
That being said ...the presence of the plethora of new age beer bars in Prague with a variety of beers on tap (including IPA's, sours, chocolate oatmeal stouts, and yes even a traditional type lager or two) does not bother me in the least and I do enjoy visiting them from time to time when there. Why? Because I think it shows the enthusiasm that the younger generation in Czechia has for beer and this can only be a good thing in the long run. I would be very concerned if there weren't new breweries (like Uneticke) brewing traditional styles. But there are plenty of those also amongst the breweries making US style IPAs. So it's not like we're being deprived of what we want. And for full disclosure ..... every once in a great while I like to break it up and have something different than a lager if for no other reason out of curiousity to taste how breweres over there are doing at brewing ales.
I've always said that the thing that I find really amazing about the Prague beer scene is that it blends the old, traditional beer culture beautifully with modern day, youthful, enthusiastic beer culture. It has it all and is lacking in nothing. I mean even Matuska which is known for it's American styles (they even name one of them California pale ale) is now making a credible attempt at a traditonal style lager in it's new brewery in Karlin. If only they didn't serve it in a .4l glass (gasp!).
Oh and one thing I'm going to add about these crafty beer bars in Prague (like Beer Geek, the Craft House, Maly Velky, etc.) is that the typically younger staff I've encountered at them have been very friendly, enthusiastic, and helpful. In other words, in my experience, they have been pleasant places to visit. They're doing something right.
I don't think that we disagree in principle, Mark, only in a few details. Re 'new' breweries: I'm not sure that we should categorise Uneticke or Hostomice really as new breweries, though they do have new owners and new buildings. However, their traidtions go back centuries and they claim that their brewing styles are based on historical designs, to some extent. It's a bit like Zoigl: the brauhaus in Eschawo less than 200 years old but the tradition goes back to the 15th century, at least.
I totally agree about the staff of the craft beer bars in Prague and also about enthusiasm of younger people for beer - it seems to me that it's much the same everywhere, which is not surprising because the modern beer types are really a new invention. It will take some time for us oldies to get used to them (not sure if I, anda lot of my generation, ever really will!).
However, it is a fact, easily observable, that, in the new bars, the overwhelming number of beers are not traditional lagers - viz. Dva Kohout, Lya, Galerie, Trilobit, Napalme, Zupaty Pes, Bubenec, Nubeerbar, Lajka, - you could go on. Fred's Facebook postings where he includes photo's of beer boards are fairly instructive in this matter.
Is this a good or a bad thing? Like beauty, it's probably in the eye of the beholder - or in this case, the mouth of the drinker.
True the brewery (Uneticke) has a long history but according to their website they shut down in 1951 and finally reopened in 2011 and had to be revived and rebuilt. So for all intents and purposes it is a new brewery with new ownership. I'm glad, as I know you are, they have revived the traditional styles along with it and have done a great job at it.
As to one of your other points. You are responding as if I had suggested that the new bars we're talking about are not overwhelmingly not the traditional Czech styles. I never claimed that they were. I stated that they usuall have a lager or two available. I've been to most of the places mentioned and have seen the beer boards first hand. But thanks for picking a nit once again.
Well maybe you weren't really picking a nit. But for the record I do agree with you that these new beer bars in Prague are mostly the new age styles. In case I hadn't mentioned that before.
Just trying to discuss matters of mutual interest!
Bewohner, apologies - apparently I've formulated my quest that unclear you were forced to jump to unjust assumptions. I hadn't even mentioned hops in the question, yikes.
There is a huge range of diversity in Franconian style Keller/Land/Zwickls. Whereas ingredients are mostly the same, there are distinct differences between many beers cherished by the fact that the classifaction system doesn't so much describe flavour, but process. It's not uncommon to hear locals say that so-and-so beer is ie too bitter, too sulfury, too dry, too malty, .. for their tastes while they gulp their own local. Isn't the whole pride of Franconia that breweries often have very unique profiles compared to the eversameness of "Craft Bier"? I agree and therefore I ask.
Examples of beers of interest I mentioned:
Witzgall, Roppelt, Hartleb, Knoblach, Scharpf, Griess, Gradl.
* * *
We had a good laugh reading your respond :D
But would still be curious for recommendations.
I admit I also assumed you were looking for recommendations on more hop forward beers and Knoblach for instance would fit the bill. Also Brauerei Zwanger in Uehlfeld (should visit Prechtel while there if you go).
The list of breweries to visit is excellent. There are many that could be added. I'd suggest also Eichhorn in Dorfleins, Zum Goldener Adler in Hoefen. Bayer in Theinheim. I recommend these two because they brew nice balanced beers.
I could go on and others may have other suggestions. When I visited Franconia for the first time in 2007 I was really blown away (in a good way) by the really soft, malty beers in Franconia (like Moenchsambacher for instance). I had never had anything like them before and loved them and still do. But have also come to love the variety in the region within those traditional styles all the way to the really bitter beers like Knoblach and Zwanger and everything in between.
Let us know how your next trip goes.
Thanks Mark. Bayer Theinheim will be a certain visit. Like the Eichhorn Keller and bring it along regulary but the bar isn't the most entertaining stop. Let me ask about a few breweries. Mind sharing some impressions about the beers? - Elch-Brau - Meister - Nikl - First (Kühlschiff!) - Reblitz - Hoh - Hartmann
I'm not familiar with the first one.
Meister is a very soft, malty, rich, copper colored Franconian vollbier that I personally love.
Nikl is okay. Decent beers. A newer brewery. Nothing ground shaking but respectable and enjoyable IMO.
First? Do you mean Forst of Drugendorf? If so I really like that one.
Reblitz is decent. They brew a small variety of beers including a Rauch.
Hoh. I didn't like it at the keller at all but at the gastatte I thought it was pretty good if nothing spectacular.
Hartmann. I've not been there since around 2013 or so and Jason had mentioned previously on this forum that they are no longer brewing onsite and he has good local info to base that on even if it doesn't appear that way looking at their site. In the past when I've been there I enjoyed their beers especially the "Erbshank" Dunkel. The rauch and pils I thought were good too but I particularly liked that Dunkel. However, things may have changed since. I know when we visited the owner, and I had a chance to talk to him for bit, was very old and I'm not sure he'd even still be around.
Ooops I was thinking Hohn not Hoh. Disregard my comments on that one. I've never had the beer from Hoh.
I have been to all of those breweries, most with the admirable (or Admiral?) Juergen. I seem to recall that Juergen wasn't enthusiastic about stopping at Elch but I sort of forced his hand after we'd found Alt at Dietzhof 'urlaub' and even Juergen couldn't charm the lady into letting us in - a rare failure!
Anyway, I remember Elch as a fairly homely place, quite crowded but they squeezed us in. I think the beer was pretty decent; it surprised J a little bit, if I remember correctly. I seem to recall eating something as well, which wasn't really a big part of our beer expeditions. Meister has been commented on but to add that the bar doesn't open now. I think someone told me that you can buy bottles from a machine and sit in the garden - or paddle in the river! Nikl, see Mark's comments - it's nice to see the brewery while you're drinking but I didn't find the beer very interesting.
I been to Reblitz a few times, usually after a visit to Wiesen, on a walk or bike ride from Ebensfeld (I actually fell off a bike coming back from one of those visits), but it's also an easy walk from Bad Staffelstein. It's an a nice place, quite food orientated but it's easy just to sit on the terrace and drink beer. The brewer is pretty inventive and it's one of the few lager breweries that also brew its own Weizen (perhaps my least favourite beer - if it is really beer, IMHO). I also shared a Rogen beer with Andy Harvey - well, actually, had a few sips of it - again, IMHO, it was horrible but, then, I am a bit of traditionalist (what, you say?).
Hoh was another place that I visited with Juergen. We certainly tried the Dunkel, which was excellent, and I think another beer - maybe a Pilsner? Something a bit different, anyway, which was also ok. Didn't try the chicken: we are both vegetarian!
Finally, Hartmann: one of my first country pub visits, quite a few years ago, with Don and Cherie. Not really my kind of place; think Drei Kronen in Memmelsdorf. The beer was pretty good at that time, specially the Rauch, but, as Mark said, Jason told us that they don't brew any more. Maybe you'd like to go and confirm? (Actually, I remember that I went a second time with Don - a few years later. Nice garden and ok beer).
But, from my memory, none of these places had beer with a 'crisp-bitter and biscuity' taste. In fact, I'm struggling to think of a Franken beer that really meets that description - sounds much more ale-like to me. Perhaps you could give us a few examples?
Just checked back through your first postings. You list quite a few places, I presume that these are meant to be examples of 'crisp-bitter and biscuity' but, really, none of these in my memory fit that description. I think of Franken beers as rather 'soft' in taste, not bitter hopped but more 'flavour' hopped.
The lack of hoppiness used to be a regular complaint/comment from Nick (formerly of Erlangen!), who went so far as to brew his own beers, using a range of different hops. A fond memory was his demonstration of his home-brewed beers when we were staying in Forchheim for the first time - all of them were very decent, except the one brewed with New Zealnd hops. Remember that Nick? You had to leave the car with us and come back and collect it the following day! Happy days.
Was it the lack of hoppiness or the lack of <4% ABV beer that I was so motivated by? Both. That was fun, having someone else try out my hausgebrautes ale. I've forgotten by now, if I was doing a proper secondary fermentation or not at that point. For a long time, I just bottled right after primary to shorten the process by a week or so, which resulted in very "farty" beer with a massive pile of sediment in the bottles.
I took some of that sort of stuff to a bier café in Utrecht once...they dumped it. Way too fruity and funky from yeast for them. Prompted me to go back to doing a real secondary.
Griess and Loewenbraeu (Buttenheim) Kellerbier were often hoppy enough for me.
Ironically, now, even Koelsch seems bitter and hoppy to me. Next time I'm in England, I might be on the lager. Or cider. Or water.
Yep, it was a good afternoon. I think that it was both the lack of hops - I suppose that you had got used to the new breed of US-stuff - and the strength - you used to prepare some strange mixtures of normal Franken beers, 'watered' down with low alcohol stuff. Sounded dire but there you are, it's all down to personal taste.
I can't really remember how Koelsch tasted - I only remember that it came in little glasses (one mouthful), was full of froth and cost a lot!
There's loads of quite low strength beers in the Uk now - see my posting about the Albion in Conwy. And certainly no shortage of hops, especially those from your native country!
Was winding you up a bit. Back then, I was craving that which I could not have in Franconia: low-gravity session ale, like I had discovered on our various trips to your funny little islands. And yes, that was when I was still a massive capitus lupulus (or whatever Latin is for "hop head"...the late owner of the Rogue brewery in Oregon once gave me an honorary plaque declaring me such, and put my name on a bottling of their seasonal well-hopped St. Patrick's Day oatmeal stout, because I had convinced him to be more up-front in labelling their various beers over something or other...I forget exactly, this was over 20 years ago...), and so I was brewing my beer with ridiculous amounts of hops, which negated any economic advantage of brewing your own beer at home.
But it wasn't about being frugal, back in those happy days of living off Mrs's good-paying job and my part-time "work"...now I understand the concept of living on a fixed income. Except right now, there is no income.
If I ever get my vehicle situation sorted out, I shall return to your Isles, except it will be to enjoy them withOUT the help of socially lubricating ale or lager. Been enjoying cheapo red wine the past few nights with Missus, but even that doesn't feel right any more.
Which makes it all the more strange to be posting here, other than to help others out. Let me know if you want to meet up again someday. I promise not to set fire to any granite countertops as a joke or commit any other crimes that might carry a sentence of 40 years to life!
I suppose that it's all a question of balance, not overdoing any particular thing - 'old wives' used to say 'a little of what you fancy etc ...'. My mother used to say everything in moderation. I suppose that they knew what they were talking about.
Of course, always happy to meet!
Good, you're not afraid of meeting me! No sword this time, fake or otherwise. New doggie though.
One thing about my new way of eating...cutting way back on the number of different things you eat led to an increase in palate sensitivity. IOW, all I need or like on my food these days is salt and pepper, where I used to be a garlic & onions freak. This translates to beer in terms of hoppiness -- I like my beer a LOT milder these days...when I was in Thanet in December, I found the Courage and Harvey's to be nearly overwhelming. The sorts of stuff I used to crave -- no thanks.
Good timing, actually, since as they say, your palate becomes less sensitive as you age. Guess I'm getting younger.
I think I know what kind of beer you're looking for and would recommend Hölzlein/Lohndorf, Först/Drügendorf, Penning/Hetzelsdorf and the Keller at Schlüsselfeld (Brauerei Scheubel). Meister/Unterzaunsbach you don't get from tap because of the closed Wirtshaus. If you want to try maltier stuff as well, I'd go for Leicht/Pferdsfeld and the Voggendorfer Keller of Brauerei Prechtel, Uehlfeld. Enjoy!
Meister’s Wirtshaus is closed???
Think this goes back a year or two. The gastro trade ain't easy and ain't hugely profitable, especially in rural Franconia. Ergo, lack of youthful entrepreneurs to take over when the oldsters retire.
Does anyone else recall the uproar that occurred a few years ago when a lady working for a tourist organisation for the "Little Swiss Franconia" dared to suggest that rural inns and taverns might consider raising the price of a Schaeufe[r]la by an Euro or so, to help keep things running?
It's a vicious circle: the bulk of their trade is from locals who, being German (and Franconian at that!), are traditionally very much of the mind that "Geiz ist geil" (frugality is fabulous). And yet places are having trouble making enough money to keep in operation, especially if it means attracting young people away from the bright lights of Ebermannstadt or Forchheim.
I say we draft Juergen to take over the next Gastaette or brewery that closes up. Might not be as personally rewarding as his current line of work though. I remember that I was thinking I should take over the Witzgall Keller a few years back. Then I went insane/regained my sanity.
(*Is* Witzgall still operating?)
Actually, now it sounds like a nice idea. I forget what the story is with having to fix up the massive cracks in the foundation and whatnot.
Witzgall is still going. The keller is not. I'm hoping to finally visit Witzgall in July. We'll see. I've said that before. Things don't always go as planned.
Worth a visit. I remember it as a convenient stop on the long walk back to the train from the Kreuzberg Kellers with Nick and Uncle Jimbo. That must have been ten years or more ago now?
Did we walk it? I remember walking it at night with someone.
Thinking about it, you may have been on your bike?
Highly probable. That bike is, sadly, no longer with me. I told Mrs to leave it with the new owners of our house, Brazillians. Lots of Brazillians in Erlangen...Siemens does a lot with them. Love how the Brazillian wives at my language school would say "baconbier" when talking about the beer in Bamberg. Lovely accent. Lovely wives.
You've not been there? I forget now, but I THINK the Gaststaette had pretty reasonable hours. Mrs & I had a blast on Tag des Bieres 2005, when there was a special beer on, I think. And some older lady tried to tell us a story about how a bra and corsette is related to the wood in an attic of a barn. Or something like that, our German wasn't so great back then, let alone Schlammersdorfer Franconian.
The tavern is great. The normal Vollbier on tap there (also from a tank...did anyone ever figure that out?) has a nice peppery note, otherwise lightly buttery. Completely different to the famous Kellerbier that is only on tap at the Keller, in bottles at the tavern.
Right off the bus stop, also easy bike ride from Eggolsheim Bf on the way to you-know-where.
Full of characters, the likes of which Gerhard and Uschi would warn us away from (ex-convicts!) like at the one Brauereigaststaette in central Forchheim. I forget which one now, but not the great big one everyone loves so much. Hebendanz?
It's a must, Mark. Utterly local.
I don't know about the ex-convicts, we always had a nice time when we were there - very hospitable people. Sort of reminds me of Zehendner, for some reason. Gerhard and Uschi were a bit odd! We once walked from the centre of Buttenheim to Wizgall, while DB were messing about with the track and there were no trains. It was not a very nice walk because there was no pavement on the road from Altendorf to Eggolsheim. Our one visit to the Keller (actually, may have been twice?) was not successful. The Kellerbier was so carbonated that is was difficult to drink. I nearly threw it away but that's reserved only for the St Georges Keller.
Forchheim? You must mean the lovely Neder - centre of the universe! Next to Hebendanz, of course, which is now more of a restaurant. Andy and self had a nice afternoon there a few weeks ago (well, actually, Andy had very nearly a full day!). We got into a conversation with some 'interesting' blokes. Always a great experience and you can take your own food! Like an indoor Keller, people even have picnics there! And the beer is pretty good as well - mostly.
Right, Neder is the beloved one, Hebendanz went through a facelift years ago, to up-scale the place a bit, though even so, Gerhard & Uschi (my old Stiebarlimbacher Kellermates, for those keeping score at home) said they wouldn't want to be seen coming or going from the place, lest their reputations be soilt.
AFA G & U being odd...who isn't? Why be normal? I've been weird my whole life...at least since age 9 or so, anyway. They've had an interesting turn of it, most recently being bee keepers before retiring from that. She's from Hamburg, he's local. Have a lovely daughter, at least, whom I met once or twice. And I thought you would like them just based on their musical interests.
My German teacher, Marc (also a Hamburger), my age, could not believe that people would actually travel from the US to Germany just to go touring around the countryside drinking the regional beer. "That's weird", he said.
Prior to the smartening-up, Hebendanz WAS full of interesting characters; look up the hilarious report(s?) from a certain English beer writer whose name escapes me at the moment, whom I met once at the Annafest. He didn't like my attitude against the filthy practice of recycling drip tray slops typically done in northern English pubs (autovac?) or my proclaiming his favourite Münchner beer "bland", even in the context of comparing and contrasting it to Franconian beer. Not John White (?) who passed away...never mind. I think googling "Hebendanz ghost stonch" should turn up his reports of early Monday(?) morning Bierkultur in there.
Having grown up in the places I have (New Orleans, Houston, let alone suburban Mpls) and travelled to various big US cities --just being from the US, actually-- I have no fear of being in close proximity to rehabilitated grey-haired German murderers (as Gerhard said they were) sitting around supping lager. The things I've been through since leaving Erlangen...heck...now I'd love to hear their stories!
That reminds me...the Hebendanz-serving tavern you found on the way out of the Zentrum...I suspect that is where the ex-con's have all gone to since the smartening-up, based on the characters I saw there the couple of times I called in.
Greif was actually my favourite of the three Brauereigaststätten located there on the Markt. They gave it up and sold it off (or leased it out) to an accounting firm quite a while back. Prior to that, it offered a fine balance betwen drinking and basic Franconian food. And the 500 (est) pound blond lady working was funny, in that sort of what's-her-name-at-Spezial sort of way.
Ah, memories...didn't someone once say that the Spanish steakhouse (?) sort of place a door or two further down towards the Pfalz was also a former Brauereigaststätte?
I remember finding certain Britons' insistence on keeping their beer-drinking and food-eating separate to be weird when I first started spending significant amounts of time with them (present company not intended!). The common German practice of having warm food available with beer at Brauerei- and normal Gaststätten seemed natural to me when we moved here. Why WOULDN'T one want to drink beer with their lunch or supper? Why wouldn't one want to eat something to soak up" the alcohol? It's pretty common knowledge that eating something in the course of an evening's drinking will help offset the deleterious effects of over-drinking, isn't it?
It was explained to me that the Briton will want to keep room in his belly for beer, not have it get filled up with food. Then, maybe drunkenly gorge on a kebab (Döner) afterwards, before collapsing into bed or having ab big fry-up the morning after. That just never seemed healthy to me.
Of course there are plenty of corner bars (Eckkneipen) in Germany that don't serve food, but compared to what I've seen in England, Germans seem to combine their eating and drinking more like midwestern Americans do. That shouldn't come as a surprise, I guess, since midwestern America was settled by Teutonic immigrants more so than say, New England was.
But going back one stage earlier in my life...it was weird to me when I moved from Minnesconsin to Oregon in '93, since there was a law that required any place that served alcohol of any sort to also serve hot food -- not just bar snacks. And there was some licensing difference between places serving only beer & wine and those serving spirits in addition to that. The former were pubs and brewpubs, the latter were bars and restaurants. I suppose it was all to protect the children...I understand that distinction in law has been dropped since my departure from OR in '04.
I guess none of that is necessarily "weird", rather, just different to each other.
It was an adjustment for us to see people drinking on the street without shame when we moved here. Also, a fest like the Altstadtfest in Nuremberg serving beer that wasn't fenced in and guarded by security or police, like in the US -- how do you avoid drunken fights breaking out? My wife was so embarrassed when I took a beer to-go from the Altstadtfest and walked with it to the train, until I pointed out that I wasn't the only one doing so. I think it's now verboten to bring your own beer on the train...anyone?
There's a LOT to be said for having three years of Kindergarten like they do here IMO. People learn to play nicely together. You can take the American out of America, but the America out of the American...not as easy.
As the Irish say, never eat on an empty stomach.
Or as the Japanese say....
No, let's not go there.
I can't say that I found G & U particularly welcoming but maybe they just didn't like us - hard to believe! But your other two Roppelt Keller friends the late Hermann and ?? were really nice and friendly.
I vaguely recall someone telling me in Forchheim that the former owner of Hebendanz, during it's 'interesting' period was some sort of spy for the Stasi or something. I only went there once during our first first visit and, as it was a lovely day, we sat outside. The following day, it was closed! To add insult to injury, Neder was Urlaub, so I had to wait until the following year to enjoy its particular delights, by which time, the customers from Habendanz had transferred their allegiance. As you say, we used to drink Hebendanz beer in Schloessle (think that's right). It had, shall we say, a mixed clientele but we never had any problems. It was pub strong for FC Nurnurg and the temperature could get pretty heated if Bayern were on the telly. Sadly, Nurnburg have just been relegated from Bundesliga 1, which leaves only Muenchen and Augusburg from Bayern.
Re eating and drinking: I don't think that there is any evidence that food affects the level of alcohol in the blood stream (it does affect the sugar content, which is why I'm often seen munching some snack or other). You have to look at the social context to understand British drinking habits. The tavern style places that proliferate in Franken, for example (e.g. Schlenkerla, Spezial, Faessla, etc.) largely withered away during the 19th century (though some survived) and left mainly your 'Eckkneipen' - like that word! We tended to finish work, say around 5 or 6 pm, go home, eat tea/dinner, and then go out for the evening, drinking, going to the pictures, dancing, whatever. After, the pubs closed (in my youth, at 10.30 pm), we were often a bit hungry, being young lads. So we went for a meal - note, not kebabs but Indian or Chinese - after all, what's the point of having an empire if you don't gt something good out of it.
I suppose that is why I like Neder - it's the closest you can get to a proper pub - I suppose a proper Eckkneipen (good). However, I have noticed an larming tendency for the bringing in of a a sandwich or a cut of meat to be extended to full grown picnics - do you remember all those ladies coming in with food in baskets Jason?
I had an interesting conversation wit Fred about US-licencing laws in Prague - it seems like a minefield. Of course, one of the things that Europeans can't understand is that it is possible to buy a firearm at 18 (and even younger if from a private vendor) but you can't buy a drink until you're 21 - astonishing to us. Florida has just raised the age for buying certain guns to 21 but no all, I believe.
Regarding alcohol on trains: not 'verboten' as far as I can see. I see loads of people drinking cans of beer on trains and the waste bins are often full of empty bottles and cans. On the train out of Schwandorf for Prague (an ALX), a chap came round and took our orders for drinks and we were still in Bayern. If you get on a train that's heading for a festival (my last experience was one going to the Kirchweih in Erlangen), slabs of beer are literally stacked up! Last year, I saw one chap open a bottle of white wine at Ebensfled and he had finished it before we got to Forchheim, where I got off, thank goodness!
I think it is a pretty well established fact that eating food slows the alcohol uptake into the blood stream. A quick internet search confirmed this. I always have thought the one of the keys to a succesful pub crawl is food.
I have been out with some who have the "Eating is Cheating" mentality and you really don't want to be around them by the end of the night.
Agreed. When leading beer tours, regular snacking is one of the things I encourage, together with not staying in one pub too long and walking between pubs.
Well I've done my web trawling and come to a completely different set of views! The one thing that is clear is that drinking on an empty stomach is bad - see my earlier comments about having tea/dinner before a night on the razz! Eating while drinking only delays the absorption of alcohol into the blood stream. Knowing the people that I know (no names, no pack drill), the sessions go on for so long that this is totally irrelevant!
There is a nice little article about fruit bats: apparently, they get drunk while eating ferment fruit (is that why they fly in circles?) but that the fructose in non-fermented fruit helps to delay the effect!
The foods that are recommended before and during drinking include milk, spaghetti, chicken, quinoa, avocado, almond butter,and cereals. Doesn't sound like the menu in many Franken Wirtshaueser, though Spezial are doing their best. Really sounds more like my like my veggie diet than that favoured by most of my friends. Chewing cereal bars seems to be much better than Schlachtschlussel (is that correct? Never thought that I'd ever be typing it!) but Kaesespaetzle seems to hit the spot, only that it's so filling!
It seems that not only does eating on an empty stomach make you get drunk faster, it also increases your overall BAC.
"According to several studies and experts on alcohol, a lot. In 1994, one team of Swedish researchers set out to answer the question by having a group of 10 people consume a few drinks on two separate days.
In one case they drank after an overnight fast, and in the other, they drank after they ate a modest breakfast.
On the day the subjects ate, the rate of intoxication was slower, even though the amount of alcohol had not changed. But the subjects also reached significantly lower blood-alcohol levels over all -- on average about 70 percent of what they were on the day they skipped breakfast.
In some cases, the study found, having a meal before drinking kept a person from climbing over the legal blood-alcohol limit for driving in most states."
If the above is true, it would seem that any food comsumption before/during a drinking session would mean less intoxication.
I don't think there is any debate about this at all. I have done more than enough drinking in my lifetime both with food in the stomach and without to know beyond a shadow of a doubt that having a meal before or during a session reduces intoxication. There is no doubt whatsoever about it. If you think otherwise you are simply just wrong. Period. End of Story.
And it doesn't seem like there is any disagreement about this on this thread as we all have plenty of experience at this.
Sorry Mark but the facts we suggest that there is a difference between drinking before, during and after. As far as I can see, that's the scientific evidence. However, really I'm not really concerned about the matter. As you well know, I'm not concerned whether other people eat or not whilst sharing my company - sitting with you and Dorothy while we all consumed our different grub did nothing to spoil the social experience. Personally, I prefer to have something reasonably substantial to eat before drinking, backed up by a small snack whilst drinking but, like my veggie habit, I don't demand that everyone else does the same. My comments were really intended to show to Nick the reasons for the 'weird' British drinking habits. It's a socio-economic thing, really nothing to do with science. We simply did not have pubs that sold food, apart from the odd packet of crisps, maybe the odd packet of salted peanuts. Nowadays, I don't have a huge appetite, so it's all a bit academic really. The thing that I would say that my choice of pub is never determined by how good the food might be or even whether they sell food (another reason why I like Neder, probably). In my experience, there are always more eating places than good drinking places, though being vegetarian in Franken (or Prague!) can be tricky. Sorry, slow Saturday morning, trying to get over a bad cold - again. Probably due to my diet - before anyone else says it.
"Sorry Mark but the facts we suggest that there is a difference between drinking before, during and after."
I think the facts suggest that eating at any of those times is going to slow alcohol uptake and lead to less intoxication. If you have been drinking for three hours and plan on drinking for three more, then having something to eat in between will help you be less drunk, and probably feel better the next day. If you eat after drinking and there is still drink in your stomach, that should reduce alcohol uptake also.
I don't think I'm splitting hairs here.
Thanks, Barry, your original response was in fact informative and interesting. That was exactly what I was after.
This "eating is cheating" business though...I've heard of that before, I think. I don't quite grasp it, but that's also OK.
I'm still fighting off the lung infection I've been plagued with 2-1/2 months now.
Glad to help!
Sorry to hear about your lung infection - check diet!
"Eating is cheating" connects with he English preoccupation with drinking to get drunk (I've never understood it myself).
I've never heard of this but can imagine that it exists. Groups of lads (& lasses) on the tare?
Jürgen, wonderful - thank you!
I've stopped at Holzlein a few times but not really heard of the other ones.
Excited to pass by!
Really taking advantage of OT now.
Called in to my nearest micropub last night for a night cap (it is only 120 yards away from my front door) to find that they had brewed a Ruby Mild at 5.1%, which is a bit less than the Sarah Hughes at 6%.
I asked Andy of the Black Cloak whether their Ruby Mild was a sort of homage to Sarah Hughes and he smiled and replied sort of! They just decided to have a try and to see how it worked out. Well, I'm pleased to say that it worked out very well! The last time that I was in the Beacon Hotel with Don S., the Ruby Mild was not too good - I ended up drinking the Pale Amber (probably this was a temporary glitch) - and the Black Cloak version was much better. Probably back tonight!
Andy of the Black Cloak and Barry of the Black Hat - just need Terry of the Black trousers and you’ll have a full house!
I'm sure we've discussed this, but have you had Purple Moose (?) Dark Side of the Moose dark mild? IIRC, it was 4.5% or so, and just...wonderful. Enjoyed it in the Welsh sunshine, of all things, years ago near Port Mad Dog with Mrs.
Have had both Ruby and Sara Hughes, but memory is foggy.
I'm sure we've discussed this, but have you had Purple Moose (?) Dark Side of the Moose dark mild? IIRC, it was 4.5% or so, and just...wonderful. Enjoyed it in the Welsh sunshine, of all things, years ago near Port Mad Dog with Mrs.
Have had both Ruby and Sara Hughes, but memory is foggy.
Yes, had it, it's good, like all PM beers - except the awful Elderflower hotchpotch (IMHO, others love it!).
Never one to miss the odd OT posting! So, now back home after a great month, first couple of weeks in Franken, then on to Prague. This time, I opted not to stay in Holesovice, not out of any negative reason but, after 3 times, I thought that a change of scenery would be good, so I opted for Vrsovice. I was really lucky that my stay coincided, firstly, with Mark and Dorothy and then with Fred. It was really good to have others to go to the pub with - a plethora of lone sessions can get a bit wearing and all 3 were great company.
I'll not attempt to describe all the sessions that we enjoyed - to be honest, I don't remember a lot of them that well! But, to be sure, the beer business in Prague (I didn't get out of town) is certainly booming. As I've remarked elsewhere (FB), there do seem to be a few trends, notably, the growth in availability of ales of various types (IPAs, APAs, etc., etc.), the increase in new venues and, like in the UK, a sort of age line, where the new pubs attract, predominately, the younger set and, the more established bars, perhaps an older age group. However, there were plenty of young people in longer established bars, such as Hostomice Nalevarna, Napalme, U Tunelu, etc., which are among my favourites.
A lot of the newer bars seem to follow the UK micropub style - fairly basic and, in the case of Dva Kohouti, decidely industrial. That there's money in this business seems to be indicated by the crowds in the new places and upmarket developments like the one in Karlin (it must have cost a mint to set). Also, there's an increasing tendency in newer places to serve beer in 0,4L pots, which, to my mind, is a rip off, specially when it's not clearly indicated. In addition, the price of beer seems to be creeping up but perhaps those with longer experience of beer in Prague would have views on this matter. A couple of places were selling Faro from Oud Beersel at Kc 40,0,10L - I wonder who would bother to order 0,10L of beer!?
As regards my favourites, they remain Hostomice Fabian and Uneticke - as far as I can recall, I only drank one non-lager/pilsner; I've no problem in finding ales of all types in my home town, so really can't see the point in going to Prague to drink them, any more than I would in Franken. But, each to her/his own.
Once I got to know Vrsovice, it turned out to be a good venue. The local Bernard bar serves very competent beer, there is a Pilsner Urquell Tankovna place, and a couple of specialised newish bars, including Zupaty Pes, run by a Russian guy and serving a profusion of ales, plus a bottle shop, which Fred hasn't added to the directory yet, but is worth a visit. It takes less than 10 minutes to walk to Krymska are area, which has a profusion of bars and restaurants, mostly worth a visit (get off at Ruska, visit the three bars near the tram stop, then walk up Krymska for the Bad Flash Bar and others before getting back on the tram at Krymska).
I went to two Fortuna Premier League football matches - at Bohemians 1905 (tiny run down stadium), who are likely to be relegated, and Slavia (very nice modern all-seat stadium but only about a quarter to third full), who will probably be Champions. I was very unimpressed by the standard of football and find it hard to understand how Slavia gave Chelsea a run for money. But, it was a good experience and certainly indicated the way that Czech football has declined in recent years, while ice hockey has blossomed.
So, as usual a lovely experience; I probably rode as many trams in two weeks as some Prague citizens do in a lifetime, though they are incredibly well used and provide excellent coverage and great value for money (especially for us old folks). I've managed to bring quite a few Kcs home with me, which means that I'll have to go again!
Nice report. It certainly is a beer wonderland and as you pointed out with a great public transportation system to help get you there.
Dva Kohouti did remind my of the layout of many new breweries with tap rooms here in the US. Very industrial setting but I suppose that is to be expected as it's more affordable to setup in such locations I'm sure. I thought their beer was pretty good but not up to the standards of Uneticke and Hostomice or Vinohradsky Pivovar for that matter. Still nice to see new breweries brewing traditional styles to offset all the IPAs.
Napalme is now officially one of my favorite pubs in Prague.
Speaking of hockey .... my team the Boston Bruins (who on monday begin the final series against St. Louis for the Stanley Cup championship) have a player on the roster (David Pasternak) who is from the Czech Republic and apparently quite well known judging from the number of compliments I got on my Bruins jersey from locals while walking around Prague. Note to self: always bring Bruins apparel when in Prague. He is the teams best goal scorer btw.
We enjoyed hanging out with you there. See you soon hopefully.
.... apologies for bad grammer, spelling, and run on sentences btw.
The IPAs, etc. seems to be a new thing. The early entrants into the Czech Craft scene were mostly brewing traditional styles. There was rarely an ale to be seen at the couple of "Sun in the Glass" beer festivals I visited at Purkmistr, Plzen a few years ago.
A nice report Barry.
I would only add a couple of things 1. I think I need to visit Napalme and 2. I'm equally disappointed with the 0,4L issue. I don't think it's just because of where I live, in that many locals would equally bristle at being given a 0,4L, nor do I care so much about being 'ripped off' - that will always be my choice to go in or go on. It's more that I don't like the sneakiness of it in many cases. I feel like i'm being condescended - a half pint / full pint and a quarter / half litre are adequately different to not need a 0,5L. A 0,4L is a complete anomoly and offers nothing to the consumer. I will pay more for a 0,5L, just provide the glasses.
Anyway, I don't really appreciate places like beergeek either because it's Prague and there are so many better places for my taste. So I don't go, problem solved. Although I would say the quality of czech brewing also comes through in many of the ales I've tried, they are generally very well made. I just find these multi tap pubs are often ubiquitous and a little soulless, but there are many exceptions.
@AndyH ales in Prague have been around a bit before 'a few years'' though I agree it's grown a lot in the last 5. Cheaper to brew and you can charge 20-50% more, so no surpirse perhaps. Even living in Franken I'd still kill for a Svetly Lezak. When it's good it's unrivelled here.
I always try to buy a Svetly Lezak or a Cerny. I can't imagine being in Franken and drinking an IPA but I'm know that it's possible. Doesn't Andi brew some bottom fermented versions, which will probably be pretty good but they're not what I want to drink? Likewise, I don't drink Franken beers in Colwyn Bay (chance'd be a fine thing), though I have been known to drink the odd bottle of Urquell (Jason holding up a cross before me) and Duvel.
In our conversation with the Russian brewer (I think that he's from Beergeek but Fred will confirm), he mentioned that raw materials in Czechia (i.e. malt and hops) were fairly cheap. So I asked why the new brewers were charging so much for ales that didn't require extensive lagering. As far as I can remember and understand, the answer was basically that you charge what you can get.
I hope that you won't be disappointed with Napalme, when you get there, Jason. It's a bit basic and quirky but genuine, friendly and I've never had a bad glass of Uneticke. I also like Jamayka, Pivo Gallerie and Indigo, all for different reasons. And, of course, Nalevarna and Hrocha (for the atmopshere) and ... etc., etc. I know that some people find it incomprehensible but I'm a pub afficanado as well as a beer lover - though I wouldn't drink in a nice pub that had bad beer.
The brewer was Ruslan who does Sibeeria as a contract brewery and has an interest in (if not owner of) BeerGeek.
I remember the converstion a bit differently. Czech malt and hops are very cheap so a traditional Czech beer shouldn’t cost a lot in ingredients. But imported (i.e. American and NZ) hops are very expensive as is imported malt to get the right flavor profile for “Modern” styles. So they cost more. After a bit of pushback he did acknowledge that the reduced brewing times (brewday to beer shipped) for ales offsets some of that. He says the breweries were his beers are brewed don’t want him to do lagers because it ties up the tanks to much. As a contract brewer he doesn’t see that as a direct expense, where a physical brewer would.
As for the .4L I agree with Jason — not only is it not made clear (where the new pubs are upfront when a stronger beer is only available in .4 or .3 size) they also usually don’t serve a .3L size for when you don’t want a full beer.
And Jason, you should check out NaPalmé but be aware the Utiněticé 10º and 12º are often the only lagers on tap — maybe another one — the rest are all newfangled stuff.
Yes Russlan is (one of) Beergeek owners.
Foreign (NZ, US, ...) hops are more expensive... however it is still very cheap. You could get malt and hops for lager for 3 CZK / Seidla, while for IPA you would get to 7 CZK... you see, no difference at all, taking into account, that you are buying a beer later on at pub for 70 crowns.
IPAs sold by brewery in casks aren't that much more expensive; usualy pub "surcharge" makes the difference... as generally people are willing to pay more for "new, interesting" beer, rather than "usual" lager...
I'm sure that your recollection is better than mine, Fred; also, it was a bit noisy (lots of customers and an echoey industrial building) and I was sitting opposite rather than next to the chap.
But the essentials are much the same and more or less confirmed by Mosquit. It seems reasonably obvious to me that many of the new places in Prague are enterprises that have come from a revival of interest in beer and this seems to mirror experiences in many other parts of the world. This is fair enough and we should be generally grateful for what's going on, particularly the interest that younger people are showing in beer.
However, it shouldn't stop us walking around with our eyes wide open and being willing to voice an opinion - and discuss!
The very best commercially-brewed American-style "IPA" I have ever had on the continent was at the one proper old pub (well, sort of proper, except they had multiple beers on tap including a couple of IPAs) there in Prague back in autumn 2015. It was pale, clean, dry, bitter, around 6%.
I remember trying Andy's bottom-fermented IPA at Abseits once...no thanks. Lager is already dry enough, and something just doesn't go right when making it really hoppy like that.
Otherwise, Jason's post above seems to be very agreeable. The one Czech restaurant in Erlangen was, sadly, a restaurant and not a pub, so not great for going and enjoying a few Seidla(s) of big-name Czech beer, and the food...why bother when it's just blander versions of Franconian starch, pork, and carp? I totally get craving Czech beer in Franken. All the Pilsner Urquell we used to burn through at home...
Hostomice nalevarna: even though I spent hundreds of days in Prague, I've never heard about this pub. Sounds very interesting, i guess it serves as a *brewery tap* of the brewery of Hostomice pod Brdy, istn't it?
It is fairly new, early 2017 I beleive.
Location wise, it is lot far from Bierhuis (though I expect you, like me, don't go to Prague to drink Belgian beer).
They have three regular beers, Svétlé 10º & 12º and Tmavé 14º There is a fourth tap that sometimes has a special beer -- last week a Vienna Lager brewed with Unêticé
You are absolutely right! I would never drink foreign beers in Prague. I prefer Czech Lagers right at the source...
I'll be in Munich the week after next. If anyone else finds themselves in "Darkest" Bavaria at the same time, it would be great to meet for a litre or two of factory swill.
On my group's last visit to Munich, we found the unfiltered Helles at Nockherburg (Paulaner) to be at least a step above the normal swill !
Augustiner was pretty good, too (as usual).
I'm revisiting Munich for 4 days at the end of July after 10 days in Franconia. I'm really quite looking forward to it. Haven't been in about 7 years. I'm okay with drinking lots of Augustiner and also visiting the Ayinger pub across from Hofbrauhaus and occasionally drinking other swill in a beer garten or two. There will be a daytrip to Salzburg as well. I've got Nockherberg (Paulaner) on the to do list.
When I visited Munich after Bamberg I hated it. Even Augustiner was meh.
When I visit Munich without having been in Bamberg I find it tolerable.
Maybe I should have gone in reverse order. Too late now. Although it will be very convenient for me flying hom from Munich direct to Boston. Might be the easiest going home day I've ever had in Germany.
Of course I'll never like Munich anywhere near as much as I do Bamberg but my expectations are reasonable going into this. Besided I'm really looking forward to that side trip out to Augustiner in Salzburg.
Also I've got a couple of first time visitors to Munich travelling with me so it will be interesting to see what they think of it in comparison to Franken.
Yes, much better to do Munich first. I'm kinda doing that this year with Munich in May and Bamberg in October (slight break between the two). Technically the Munich trip is a family holiday not a beer tour but when in Rome...
Augustiner Salzburg is amazing, easily one of my top 5 beer experiences ever!
Augustiner is good for sensitizing oneself to DMS, as it plagues every single one of their golden lagers-- especially the helles and pils. All in my very humble two cents.
My (perhaps anbitious) itinerary includes:
Paulaner am Nockherberg
A beer garden in the English Garden
Augustiner am Platzl
Ayinger am Platzl
Schneider Bräuhaus München
Andechser am Dom
Max Emanuel Brauerei
Thoroughly recommend a visit to Tegernsee. Beautiful setting, the beer gets a bit of a rap these days but it’s perfectly enjoyable.
Why's the beer get a rap these days? The Spezial (?) is the most characterful beer in that part of the country, IME...actual malt flavour and aroma. Cheerios-like, as I've always said. And the setting...spectacular.
Ditto those commenting on Salzburger Augustiner. Hopefully not so crushed with tourists, but oh well, we're all tourists when we're there.
It just does, partly due to a bigger presence across the country over the years, think it’s a bit cult in Berlin. That increased output may have affected the quality slightly but when I’ve had it at the brewery it’s been very good.
Augustiner Salzburg is one of the best beer experiences there is. Period.
The anticipation of standing in the queue at five to three, waiting for Augustiner Salzburg to open is the first part of the experience. From then on it's amazing beer theatre from start to finish.
I'll be going to visiting the Tegernsee pub in Munich, Unfortunately there's not enough time to visit the brewery, even in one week. There's a lot of general tourism stuff to fit in including:
And plenty more visits in Munich itself including Old Town, Olympic Park, BMW World, etc...
Mrs & I did all those Munich things save Olympic Park & BMW, back when we spent a week there around the turn of the century. Except Dachau. Don't think I could handle that.
Oberammergau and Neuschwannstein are great too.
Dipping the Krug in the fountain before getting it filled at Augustiner...Bierkultur! Beer's a bit fruity too...or maybe that was the Starkbier during Lent. Only been twice.
Completely agree about Augustiner Salzburg.
Don’t forget Nürnberger Bratwurstglöckl across from the Frauenkirche. I’ll be there next week. Safe travels!
there’s a back entrance... and a Schwemme. The beer is cheaper there and if you can squeeze in it’s a rare treat in Munich.
The schwemme sounds OK,not sure I fancy the back entrance though.
Thanks, yes am aware of the place and its cheaper entrance. You'd think a week would be long enough to do everything but it's really not. Trips out to Aying, Tegernsee and Andechs would be good if time permitted. Salzburg I tend to visit separately as it justifies a few days.
Sorry but that’s nonsense - i have never tasted DMS in Augustiner helles. And I’ve drunk a fair bit. Maybe what you tried, but that was a very sweeping statement, not really humble.
The Helles and Edelstoff are fine beers, when served fresh, and so are many of the places to drink them in Munich. Again, (and again and again), don’t drink the beer in a vacuum. It’s not mind blowing, but it’s a good all round experience.
Perfect! I could use some sensitivity training.
Swill!!? I feel the Augustiner master brewer would welcome your inputs to save him from producing many more millions of litres that nobody wants to drink.try to set up a meeting asap.
Andy who are you addressing this too? I used the word swill but totally in a sarcastic/joking manner. I personally really like Augustiner (in case I wasn't clear about that before)
The original post mark, the forum doesn't always behave the way I expect it to regarding replays.
Why so much discussion on Muenchen, which, to my simple mind has little relationship to Franken.
Well it does say OT in the thread much like OT discussions regarding Prague, Eschawo, or wherever.
I intended to use the word "swill" in a tongue in cheek way but of course text is not as nuanced as the spoken word.
I don't want to restrict discussion, Mark, after all I've used It as much as the next contributor. I'm simply wondering why so much time is spent discussing it as a beer destination when most on this Forum believe that it's beers are fairly average at best and have little resemblance to the Franken tradition.
Well firstly it's just one thread that's been going on for a day or so. It's not like really all that much time has been spent discussing it. Do we have something better to do?
So why is it a discussion here at all?
IMO because some of us are going there soon, the proximity to Franken, and It is a signficant beer destination despite what many on this forum think of the beer. Where else in the world do you have that many large beer halls and beer gardens in one place? The beer culture alone makes it a worthy destination IMO. This is not even to mention some of the side trips that can be done from there (aformentioned mentioned Salzburg for example). Is it as good as Franken or Prague? No of course not. But it is a mere two hours from Franconian and it certainly is not a beer desert by any stretch of the imagination.
This will be my 4th time visiting the place. I enjoyed the city and the beer on my previous three visits. :shrug: Maybe I'm not critical enough?
Agreed Mark, beer drinking is at least as much about place as it is about the quality of the beer.
And whilst I'd ideally drink in Franken a lot more, a change can be good occasionally.
Agreed. Sorry Barry, with due respect, sometimes you take your opinion (which is fine) and proport it as gospel (which it isn’t). Munich isn’t Franken(no on said it was) but it’s an interesting city (yes, some people believe that) and it has a big beer tradition. Ok, if you don’t like Augustiner or craft beer it’s probably a bit ordinary. I have spent many an enjoyable hour in the Augustiner Keller and enjoyed it as much as any Bier Keller in Franconia. Even drinking a späten beer by the river has been thoroughly enjoyable.
This evening in Ulm I shall be visiting a pub that has Augustiner helles tapped from the wood at 18.30. How many Franken breweries do that? Top of my head, 1. And I will enjoy the 2 beers I have before I drive back to Bamberg later. And there will be no butter, that I can be sure of.
No need to make a big thing of this. Just ignore the post if you don’t want to get involved ;)
My final contribution and opinion(humble) on this post is,that in warm weather Munich and its biergartens(and there are scores possibly hundreds if one includes the suburbs)are one of the top 5 of beer " experiences.and the cold einheits(spell?) beer is just right for the experience.
Two Seidla(s) hopefully, not two Mass(es)!
No butter? Love butter. Mom bought us margarine when we were young, as it was cheaper than butter. Now...ick. And now we know it's worse for you than butter is...which is actually GOOD for you. All the re-learning of nutritional knowledge we who grew up in the Shadow of Eisenhower's Heart Attack have to go through...never mind.
(Ah...you mean butterscotch, as in diacytel in the beer?)
I have mixed feelings about Munich. Was our first ever German destination, back before I knew about Kellerbier or Rauchbier, back when I would pour two cans of Henninger (from Trader Joe's) into a litre Glaskrug and pretend our backyard garden in Orygun was a Biergarten. Spaten was a luxury. (That Glaskrug went on to be used for sparging.)
We landed at 8 or 9 in the morning, and were sat in the Viktualienmarkt by 11 or 12, in time to still partake of Weisswurst mit Senf and Spaten. Fabulous way to fight jetlag. Over the years though, I lost my appetite for the place, mostly because of the cost and crush of tourists.
Like I did for Bamberg much later!
***NOT VEGGIE FRIENDLY***
Damn....love me some Weisswurst. Not had any in years. Are there any pure veal variants of it, or does it always include pork?
Another Munich highlight for me: having an early morning Weisswurst at the Hauptbahnhof, at one of the little standing tables between the platforms and the place that sells Weisswurst (among other lesser foodstuffs) and Bier. None of this "Suesseln" for me (sucking the meat out of the lining), rather, knife and fork like civilised folk.
I forgot what else I was going to ask or point out here...ah well.
I'm another fan of Weisswurst. I make a point to always go for Frueschoppen at least once per trip at Schlenkerla. Before noon is the best time to be in Schlenkerla as well. Place is not crowded then and the Weisswurst and Brezn is excellent despite being north of the Weisswurst equator. A morning visit to Schneider (Weisses Brauhaus) will be a definite when I'm in Munich.
Well don't forget to get a standing one in the HBf if you have time. Watch the hustle and bustle and soak in the Weisswurstkultur and/or Bahnhofkultur.
Now I remember...the stereotype of fast food being SUCH an American thing...well, yes, certain fast food things were invented in the US. But Germans have long had the tradition of the "Stehcafé", the standing café, where you get something quick and don't even sit down to eat it.
Heck, the Doener wrapped up in Fladenbrot or pita is a German innovation, going back to two Doener shops in Berlin who fight over who came up with the idea first. One guy said they saw how busy the Germans were, eating sandwiches and what-not on the go, that he thought maybe they could be enticed into Doener by offering it as a wrap.
I've heard that this Germanicism has now infiltrated Turkey to some extent...guess we should feel bad about that.
The thing with coffee & cake at the Bierkeller being a new thing...so is having warm food. So is having toilets.
Meh...not sure where I'm going with this. Nowhere fast.
Doener in a pitta has certainly colonised the Greek islands as Gyros. Never been to Turkey so no experience of that.
Yesterday, being in Ulm for the weekend, I visited Ehingen, about 20 minutes away by train, also in Baden Württemberg. I last visited I 2012 and was very impressed, but I don’t hear much on here about it.
There are 4 breweries in Ehingen, 1 being in the ‘Berg’ area just outside. I am yet to visit this brewery though I’ve had the beers. Brauerei Berg has a very interesting looking setup with lots of beer garden / Keller areas, so definitely a summer choice. The city is very proud of its brewing pedigree, and there are signs to breweries and other nice touches reminiscent of Franconia.
Tye other 3 are all in the center more or less, and a 1 km round walk from the station would be all you’d need to visit all of them. The historic town is quite pleasant with a river running through and some impressive historic buildings, but it’s not a visit in and of itself. Our first stop was Rößle Brau, though it didn’t open until 4pm and we had to wait until 4.30 before they eventually opened. An attractive pub in an old building next to the brewery, the unfiltered hell and dunkel were rather good. The people were also very friendly and as soon as they knew I lived in Bamberg they were harping on about previous visits etc.
The next brewery was Brauerei zum Schwert. An impressive building and very unchanged grand taproom that had seen better days, reminiscent of Schwann in Burgebrach. The beer was ok to goood, they had a kellerbier which was very much like a helles and a helles that was also very much like a helles. Overall a pleasant if not mind blowing experience.
Finally we visited Schwannen Brau in the center, memorable from my first visit as it’s actually connected to best western hotels and there is a BW Hotel behind. The exact relationship I’m not sure of, it may well be independent as, unless you go in the beer garden in front of the hotel, behind the brewery gasthof, you may not notice. Anyway the beer was good and they had a fridge with a lot of ‘craft beer’ from around Germany. The food was very good and not too pricey.
Overall i would thoroughly recommend Ehingen. It’s a bit out and not really somewhere you’d stop on the way to Franken, but perhaps a detour on the way to Munich, with an overnight stop recommended. They have a street beer festival in early May which has 14 breweries from the area, many of which I hadn’t heard of. Unfortunately this year it was cancelled due to the cold weather - take heed Memmelsdorf!
Nice! I was there back in 2011 and thought the same of the breweries in town. Also did not go to Berg but had their beers. At that time there was a fifth brewery in Ehingen-Ristissen but that closed a few years later.
Hope you're well. Have spent quite a bit of time residing in bungalow parks around Valkenburg since December. Have you been to that ...funny... little corner of your country? Fascinatingly complex linguistically and beerily.
I hardly know Limburg except for Maastricht. Most of the time I only travel through it (by train, what else).
Spend some time in Valkenburg (not during the Xmas tourist season though!) some day. One world class specialist beer cafe, lots of lovely architecture, and the walk from Schin op Geul along the river is great, with the Koets Hoes tavern (former carriage house) being particularly rustic. The cafe at Schin op Geul station is supposed to be great, but never open when I've stopped by.
Maastricht...been a couple of times. Meh...not my kind of place, for whatever reason.
Interesting post Jason,and a remminder (to me at least) that other beer related tourism exists in Germany. But the Franken magnet has a strong draw.
The world of hotel ownership is complex and rarely related to the branding. Many international brands are effectively franchises with the hotels either independent or more commonly part of an ownership or management company with a third organisation owning the building. Most BW hotels are family owned as BW is an even more curious organisation that has more to do with collective marketing and quality standards than actual ownership or branding. Hotels often change branding without actually changing ownership and, of course, the reverse is also common.
I popped into Nuremberg in the afternoon on the way to the airport,and discovered a local old chaps drinking area in Barfusser busy with a good typical Franconian atmosphere. I actually enjoyed the blond beer and passed a decent hour.Then on to Schanzenbrau,as those who know me I dont "Ratebeer" so will say I enjoyed the Rotbier 6/10 and the Kehlengold 8/10 a very tasty beer.(well crafted Barry Ha!) accompanied by a cracking cheese board and good bread.all in all a good place IMHO.
Well crafted indeed. Schanzi the only place that I've found worth going to in Nuernburg.
Not quite sure why you wouldn't like Barfusser?
I've been in a number of Barfusser pubs and they all seem in the same mode:chain-pubs without any character and very ordinary beer. Maybe Nue is different, I can't remember. Certainly, they are a million miles different from Schanzi.
Agreed based on my only experience of barfußer in Nuremberg the first and only time I visited 12 years’ ago. But times change and there is one in Ulm that I might visit today to try it out. Always open to change my opinion, especially if it’s a poor one.
Will report back.
All I can say Jason is that I was pleasantly surprised. Turn to the left at the bottom of the stairs and there is a section separate from the main food hall in the style of Neder forcheim.and I enjoyed the Blonde beer.
Interesting to learn of this drinking area.
I always kind of liked the atmosphere in Barfuesser: the odd juxtaposition of RAF memorabilia (IIRC) in a massive Ratskeller type place. I wasn't aware it was one of a chain til later on, which explains the murky German-brewpub Blonde/Dunkel "Gebraeu".
(The RAF tat always struck me as interesting or daring, considering how well flattened the town was by them and the USAF.)
Really? Well, come to think of it, I'm struggling to think of a place that you (what I've learnt about you over the years, anyway) should like as well as Schanzenbraeu...nope, can't think of one.
It is a pretty dismal city for Kneipen and Bier.
Me, I'm back at "home" with Mrs & doggoes after 13 nights in hospital -- Europe's largest, apparently. Was on O2 for 12 days straight. Lost 10 pounds of muscle despite eating as high a protein-laden diet as possible, owing to the open-mindedness of the nutritionist ladies that consulted with me. Breathing is slowly improving.
Of all the wacky stuff that I've been through the past 2 years, this was the most frightening: feeling like you're suffocating. It brought back to mind my previous bout with pneumonia, 50 years ago now, as a 4 year old. All I remember is being claustraphobic in bed, and the doctor making a house call and giving me a shot/jab/Spritz...imagine that -- a house call. The world has changed a bit since then.
Sorry if I'm repeating myself here, but much of the time I spent there is a blur. It's a wicked building, was formerly some sort of factory. See pics here. Bizarre that they have smoking areas in the inner courtyards and tobacco for sale at the gift shop. Mrs worked at Nike in Oregon before adidas; smoking was prohibited on the entire grounds, parking lot included.
Mrs and dogs, well, what do you know! So what actually was wrong with you? Smoking? Why do some people do it and others not? Beats me.
Atypical (viral?) pneumonia, from what they can tell. They quarantined me for nearly a week before they ruled out TB. Bacterial pneumonia is unlikely due to what the CT showed: evenly dispersed fluid buildup, no fever.
I played around with smoking last year, out of boredom and ...wait for it... peer pressure. It did, however, keep me alert during my cross-country drive.
Smoking that other stuff that's being legalised all over the US...Just Say No! Man, that stuff is NOTHING like what we had when we were teens -- way, way too strong! It's a big contributor to why I did that which I did that I shouldn've have done that got me in a bit of a legal pickle. Makes some people act psycho...myself apparently included.
I've seen the ill effect on friends who smoked during college days and never gave up. Even the weaker stuff causes mental problems if you smoke enough of it over a long enough period.
Definitely not worth it.
A nice bit of hand rolled Golden Virginia occasionally or a good Cuban cigar is another matter entirely. :)
I'm STILL recovering from the pneumonia. The breathing and coughing are improving, but I still can't even walk the dogs without getting winded.
Now to think of inhaling any sort of smoke...just say no! (I understand you don't inhale a cigar.)
I dreamt last night that I was smoking cigarettes again...yeesh.
ObFranconiaBeer: When the Rauchverbot finally came in over a decade ago, I remember being able to smell the "age" of the Schlenkerla tavern for the first time. Mrs & I had all but stopped going out to eat & drink much in the couple of years prior to that, as the qualm had become unbearable, especially for her with her contact lenses. I also remember reports of a boom in the gastro trade in the year following the Rauchverbot, which ran contrary to the dire predictions of the smoking ban opponents.
Boy, how I used to get worked up over that!
I take it, Barry, you didn't call in at Landbierparadies Wodanstrasse? There's usually only one beer 'vom Fass,' but it's not going to be some taste-alike bogwater from a Radeberger-Gruppe subsidiary, and then there are fifteen bottled beers as well, all from small Franconian family-owned brewers.
All the Landbierparadies places will have a wooden (plastic-lined, pitched, or?) gravity barrel from a Franconian countryside brewery propped up on the bar. The woodwork in the places was done by travelling journeyman carpenters who wear the traditional outfits...I forget what they're called. Interesting places, though not necessarily old or quaint, as they have been taken over from some other sort of failed business, not originally taverns. IIRC, affordable prices for Nürnberg.
Erm...maybe not a *failed* business.
I went out with Nick one night to a couple of Landbierparadies. I think Ok would cover my impression. Both of the 'cask' beers we had had elsewhere and these were far inferior. Just nothing about them that would tempt me again; the same with all the Nuernburg Wirtshaueser (?) except Schanzi.
Nuernburg is a big city with a fantastic industrial history (first railway train in Germany), so there must have been a big working class thirsting for beer. So what happened to all the Eckkneipen (love that word)? You can walk for ages in the city and not find a pub.
German plurals...back when I was in school, I asked my classmates: If you could change one thing about German to make it easier or whatever, what would it be? For me, it was the plurals. How plurals are formed is somewhat less regulated by rules than other common aspects of the language. Sometimes an umlaut, sometimes not; sometimes an "-en" ending, sometimes not; sometimes no change at all...anyway. (Haus -> Haeuser)
You're right about Nuernberg -- why aren't there more good taverns for a city of its size?
I first got really familiar with the word "Eckkneipe" back during the Rauchverbot wars. Berlin still allows smoking in Eckkneipen, places under 75 sq metres or so. The argument was smoking should remain allowed in corner bars, but banned in more family-ish or food led places.
Landbierparadies...there was one that closed that actually had great character. I forget which one it was. It seemed like it had been a gold old tavern before that.
Yes, we had some bad luck with the Fassbier that day. I had had more good luck previously, running into Hetzelsdorfer or others of similar calibre.
I am planning on returning to the Bamberg area May. I would love to have pint or 2 with anyone who might be in the area. Jason and Rainer, I am talking to you! I will have a car and driver and room for a person or 2 if anyone is interested.. My tentative plans are not nearly as aggressive as Kim's or Mad's. On Thursday May 16 I want to head north of town and stop at Schroll, Golden Alder and possibly others in the area. On Friday, head South to Hofmann and then over to Witzgall and Roppelt and possibly the nearby kellers. I plan to stay closer to Bamberg on Saturday making it to Eichhorn and possibly a trip to Memmelsdorf and Merkendorf. If the weather looks bad on Friday I may switch the Friday/Saturday agenda.
I also plan to make the evening rounds in Bamberg. I am staying in Wunderburg not far from Mahrs and Keesman.
Hi Jeff would love to meet up but leave for Prague on May 8. Have a great time!
Barry, one of these times we are going to work it out. I believe we over lapped last year but all the closer I got to meeting you was a beer mat with your phone number on it, I think Jason gave it to me. I misplaced it and had no way to get a hold of you. A few weeks later I was looking at the pictures on my phone and realized I took a photo of your number so I would not have to hang on to the beer mat. Aahh Beer!
I will be in Prague later in the month. This will be my first-time visiting Prague after Bamberg. I am interested to find out if reversing the order will have an impact on how I perceive the beer.
When will you be in Prague? I will be there May 15-24 fi you want to meet for a beer or three.
And on the off chance anybody is there, I'll be in Berlin May 9-15
That will work for me. I get into Prague on the afternoon on the 23rd and stay until the 27th. Keep me posted as to the time and place.
Well I leave the morning of May 24 so that is just the afternoon/evening of May 23. I am staying near I.P. Pavlova but will have a transit pass so I can meet anywhere.
I don't know if you do Twitter but you can follow my progress @FredWaltman -- or if you don't, see tweets without signing up at www.FredWaltman.com/tweets
Hi Fred I arrive Prague on tomorrow (weds) and leave 21st.. I'm staying in Vrsovice, which is not far from Pavlova, so we should be able to meet easily enough. Give me a shout when you've got settled.
Barry, I'll do that. Let me know if you stumble on any great new places...
Definitely will! Give me a shout when you arrive - I'm a 10 minute free tram from Pavlova. Only free because of my extreme maturity!
Fred, follow me on twitter so we can direct message @strembean. It appears from your tweets you are tearing up Berlin! I am staying near Kampa Island but I am available to meet anywhere.
I wouldn’t say I am tearing up Berlin — at least not yet.
I am staying near I.P. Pavlova. Happy to meet up often for a beer, but my goal is to visit a number of new (to me) places so there may be a lot of “one beer and done”
Unfortunately I won’t be in bamberg from Thursday to Sunday. Happy to meet Sunday evening or Wednesday if you’re about.
Hi Jeff, nice to read from you. So far this year the weather was not good for Kellers and beergardens. It was early, when the beergardens were still closed, warm and beautiful. When all Kellers opened at the end of April, it became unstable and cold. This weather is still going on. I hope you have more luck next week! I do not know yet if I can manage to meet you. As you know, when I drink beer, I prefer to hike or cycle. Both are certainly too time-consuming for the few days you have in Franconia. I'll send you an email with my phonenumber, so you can write (WhatsApp, Telegram...) me where you are right now.
By the way: Schroll in Reckendorf has closed on Thursday (Ruhetag), as well as Witzgall in Schlammersdorf.(https://www.bierwandern.de/inhalt/brauereiliste.html - X means "closed")
I have been told by a local publican here in Glasgow that Olaf Schellenberg has died.
Olaf had imported Franconian and Bavarian beers to Scotland for many years, supplying many beer festivals and discriminating pubs with a selection of bottled beers from the likes of Pyraser, Meister, Krug, Greif and Kneitinger. Thanks to Olaf, ironically enough, these beers were more easily available in Scotland than in most parts of Germany.
Many drinkers owe him a great debt for increasing their knowledge of proper lager. Prost, Olaf.
I didn't know him at all but would suggest that Pyraser was the reason for his death.
Sorry. don't mean to hurt anybody's feelings with a little black humour.
I get it.
Also heard this news recently. I used to work regularly with Olaf across the country’s CAMRA beer festivals. At Reading fest in 2004 he gave me my first ‘pint’ of schlenkerla maerzen from the barrel. I think it’s fair to say I never looked back.
Prostdala, mein freund.
15 Years ago....I've lost track of your age. You must be the archetypical hugely sought-after young CAMRA member!
R.I.P. I am sure he will be missed.
Sad news, I knew him also through CAMRA beer festivals he brought a great range of German beers to Ipswich a couple of times.Auch a nice chap.
I don't believe I met him, but sad news indeed.
Rather than communicating by email or messenger to everyone separately I'm just going to throw out the rough plan here. I'm happy to say Juergen is joining us so we will have 7 in total.
I'm going to pick up the vehicle at about 9:45-10am. Barry and Andy if you could meet us at Bamberg bahnhof no later than 10am that would be helpful because from there we can quickly jump on the autobahn and be on our way.
We're scooping up Juergen at the Forchheim station at 2pm so beforehand we'll at least visit Hoffman in Hohenschwaerz and if we feel there is enough time maybe one other place (Lindenbrau or Drummer maybe). Don't want to rush around though so I'm perfectly happy to stay at Hoffman for an extended visit before getting Juergen.
After getting Juergen we'll move on towards Waischenfeld. We'll have time for a stop before Heckel opens so maybe Held Brau. Then Heckel at 16:30 sharp.
No idea how long we'll stay at Heckel but when we do head back towards Forchheim to drop Juergen off maybe we will feel up to visiting another stop such as maybe Alt in Dietzhof for example. We'll see if Dorothy minds an extra stop or not. I'm sure she won't mind as long as it's not too late.
Since we've got to drop Juergen off at Forchheim bahnhof Barry and Andy you should just plan on getting off there too and take the train back to where you're going from there. It will save the missus a step which I'm sure she'll appreciate at that point.
Sounds fine mark.see you at the bhf.
Alles im Ordnung! My train arrives at Bamberg But at 9.57, so should be on Vorplatz within a couple of minutes. But I'll see you Thursday anyway. Bring some warm clothes because, according to Wetter de (& sadly, they're usually right), the weekend is going to be sehr kalt. We'll see. Take care 'und reisen sie gut!'
How was it then? Anyone fall over getting on their bike like I did at Annafest that one time years ago? (Maybe that was with the Nebraskans or Uncle Jimbo.)
It went well, no falls or mishaps. We were lucky to have Dorothy driving us around - thanks a lot Dorff from all of us (see you in Praha Weds). Started in Lindenbrau, which was good - Vollbier if I remember correctly. Then Hofmann, excellent Dunkel for me, as the Maibock too strong but the others liked it. Then a quick rush back to Forchheim to pick up Juergen, then Ott, which was good, before Heckel. Unfortunately, it 20 mins after opening and impossible to get seats. So we bought Seidlas and drank them outside with locals who couldn't get - good fun. Some discussion over strength of beer, tasted a bit stronger than standard Franken 5,2ish. Finally, Alt in Dietzhof. This was my (personal opinion!) only disappointing beer - far too fizzy. Our travelling expert (Andy) suggested it may have been too young and I'm not going to argue. However, it wasn't undrinkable , just not quite as good as the others. Due to an hour's wait in Bamberg for train, I nipped down to Faessla for a quick Lager. All in all, a great day, with friends Beth and Jason, Mark and Dorothy, Juergen and Andy. Shows what can be done with a bit of organisation. Thanks Mark.
Slight correction: it was Held Brau (Not Ott) and it was Hoffmann festbier rather than maibock (Not sure what fest it was, could have been kerwa or maybe their fastenbier hadn’t been drunk). Robert tested the Heckel beer some years’ ago and it was 6%. It tasted very close to that this time.
The helles at Alt was good, the dunkel less so, definitely caramelly and rather buttery. Didn’t matter, nice place and by that time most people were pretty p*****.
1 mishap - Juergen missed his train stop as he was asleep ;)
Yeah, it was a great evening and Dorothy was the perfect driver - thanks a lot, Dorff! Well, it was a lot of beer. Interesting to wake up near Sulzbach-Rosenberg at one in the morning.
It worked out well. Dorff enjoyed it too and offered to DD again next year
I liked the Hoffman Festbier the best but enjoyed our time spent out by river across the street from Heckel the most. And of course the Heckel beer is great too. Place was packed hence why we had to take our beers outside
I think we all know what it’s like in Franconia... when you have a good group of people enjoying themselves the beer often takes a back seat. I know we’d all agree on that. The scenery was at times spectacular, the discussions varied and humourful and the atmosphere jovial throughout.
For sure we talked about the beer, but it wasn’t the main focus. The pubs, the atmospheres and the quirks of drinking in Franken were discussed more.
Appreciate the organization Mark - just the right number of places. We visited 5 breweries in 10 hours and 1 was a bit of a bonus. Long gone are the days of running around like a blue arsed fly - amen to that.
Alt in Dietzhof...only remember being there once, though it's one of the breweries very nearest to Erlangen. Probably 2 or 3 times. IIRC, it's a barnyard, not unlike the one in the one village south of Bamberg.
Fizzy is as fizzy does.
Right...you can get it on keg at a café with lovely Biergarten across from the Arcaden in Erlangen, where it varied all over the place. Hell vom Fass, Dunkel aus der Flasche. Meh.
I stand corrected by my learned friend! But I was an excellent day. Sorry to hear your misadventure Juergen, I assume that you got home ok in the end.
I did Barry. And I like adventures. No problem at all. ;-)
A very fine trip indeed! Good beer, great company,nice scenery and unusual food. whats not to like.
Google walberlafest 2019
Looks like some uphill walking involved Andy. About 1.5 km from what I can tell. Doesn't bother me but not sure about you. From some of the photos I've seen on FB page it looks like a variety of local beer. I can see a Krueg (Breitenslau) and a Neder tent at least.
Whilst looking at Alt of Dietzhof website spotted a link to a strange folk/beer festival. It translates as whale watching program. www schlaifhausen.com
That acutally looks kind of interesting. Looks like a fair amount of drinking and going up and down a hill on Sunday. As it says here: Now the question will be, how to get there on a Sunday?
Yea, strange but interesting. It mentions a shuttle service, looking at pics of previous years it gets pretty busy. What's the whale watching or is that just translation?
I think it is a joke -- along the lines of what my cousins in Sault Ste Marie used to do -- go down and watch submarines go thru the locks (other places, I've heard "go watch the submarine races").
Looks very easy to get to as well. Take train to Kirchehrenbach via Forchheim. Only 45 minutes or so total from Bamberg and then hike up 2km or take the shuttle as you mentioned. I'm seriously intrigued.
The walberla is a hill top. There are a number of good breweries including Meister, Hetzelsdorfer and Drummer. Not sure where whale watching came into things. The danger of literal translation.
Or the danger of Google's translations Jason.so the word walberla means hilltop? Is it a slang word?
Walberla is a ridge a few miles from Forchheim. In Forchheim museum, there is a display model showing the various ancient settlements on the hill. Celtic or pre Celtic, if I remember. Actually Juergen is the expert on Walberla.
Ahh! Now I see Barry.I wonder if the organisers know how it translates
Andy I think you're just trying to fat shame the locals. Not very nice. I'm not sure I want to be seen with you there.
No probably not wise, you would get no privacy what with all the binoculars focused on me!
Haha, well Wal means whale but whale watching literally would be Walbeobachtung. La is the diminutive in Fraenkisch so it just means little whale, like the hump representing the hillside.
But whatever you're smoking Andrew, I'll have some!!
Only trusting translation on Google Jason.But I am actually not smoking only drinking smoke beer.(Red Herring from Greenjack Lowestoft).
only messing... see you next week!
I know. Cheers!
Right again Barry, though non-geologist me doesn't know if distinguishing it as a ridge or a hill is appropriate. The root name Walberg would be Wal Hill/Mountain (if over whatever height). Franconian slips it down to Walberla.
It's sort of a twin peaked hill. Lovely views, and yes, I've seen that display about the pre-Celtic sites too. It was also featured on TV some years back. I assume Walberlafest translates to whale watching with Google...?
The Walberlafest goes back to the 14th century, and as such is one of the oldest spring fests in Franken. B & I never went, because we heard it can be a bit wild, out of tradition. At least, that's the word at the Keller in Stiebarlimbach.
A hike uphill, yes, and be ready for drunken fun.
Speaking of the Roppelt's Keller (when aren't we?), did anyone see Gerhard and his wife last year? Like, Barry? If you see them, give them my best.
TOPIC DRIFT AGAIN
There is no good Franconian beer in the Uni hospital pulmonary wing in Aachen. I know this, because I've been quarantined there now over 48 hours. Took a ride in a Notarzt Ambulance (remember, people, dial 112, not 999 or 911) to get here Saturday evening, after the bizarro lung infection I caught a few weeks ago got dangerous.
Long story short, either I have TB or something else, but the doctors all think it's something else. A viral infection spread uniformly throughout my lungs. Two days of antibiotics and oxygen seem to be helping. I go in for a bronchioscopy tomorrow, sedated. Never spent more than one day in a hospital before, and that was when I was twelve.
Not amused. The weirdness that is plaguing me since leaving Erlangen continues...only one cute young nurse so far, sadly. And the food...um...I shall continue to instruct the nutritionist lady on what's wrong with her dietary options as things progress, but she did agree today to get me some more animal foodstuffs in place of the piles of Brot that come with every meal.
Sorry to hear about your incarceration, Nick, but maybe you should listen to the nutritionist! Do agree about the Brot thing though - that and salt (you should that with her) are obsessions in the diet in Deutschland. Haven't been to Roppelt probably since we were last there together. Get well soon and take care!
You must also know that salt has been improperly villified for many years, along with cholesterol.
Been working on her this past week, and although she likes to her herself speak, she is open-minded, esp after I was able to keep up with her on nuances of ketogenic dieting's OTHER benefits (nervous system, etc.). And so my brekkies and lunch today...still dialing it in...from Twitter:
(Don't look if you don't want to see slices of roast beef...much too dry and lean, but progress.)
Anyway, I imagine American tourists landing in hospital in this country would end up with the posh level of service provided by "private" insurance. I wish I could compare with US hospital service, but I've never been in one over night, though I did make it into 4 or 5 between Minneapolis and Las Vegas last year. The first two for being peppersprayed (second time point blank in the eye by a twerpy little security guy working at Twin Peaks, first time outside a strip club in the bad part of Minneapolis...never mind...), the other two or three for middle-of-the-night ER & A&E runs for sand in eyes (desert world problems) and an ear infection (don't EVER let the hot 15 YO Vietnamese daughter of the owner of the nail salon where you're getting your feet done with your girls talk you into that procedure where they suck the ear wax out of your ears with candle wax).
Just a few words to that hill: The official name of it is Ehrenbürg. On top of it is a chapel that's associated with St. Walburga, the holy Walburga. The Franconians pet named her Walberla, a diminutive form of Walburga. As in Georg - Gerchla, Angelika - Geli, etc.
And yes, there's an iron age hillfort on top. It's Celtic, not pre-Celtic.
Right, thanks again Juergen for cleaning up whenever I crap all over the place! Or something.
A bit wild and out of tradition? Drunken fun?
I reckon the missus and I are going to Walberlafest on Sunday!
Hope you recover soon Nick.
Thanks Yeastybapmann! Or have I got that mixed up?
Turns out I have no TB, "just" an unidentified "atypical pneumonia" that is "going around."
But when you think the German tradition of "Abendbrot" (evening bread, i.e. cold cuts & bread) for supper takes some getting used to, imagine it with hospital food.
First, there's the clearing up of the "no bread, thanks, trying to keep fit & healthy" issue, then there's the cold cuts. Were the pigs & cattle & turkeys organically fed, thereby helping out their omega3/6 issues, etc. And then the eggs.
And...a chilled omelette? That's bizarre.
My annual spring visit began with a gentle run out to Spezial; I thought that the U wasn't quite as flavourful as before but you can definitely get a faint 'rauch' taste in the first mouthful. However, the Lager is in excellent form and must be among the best available. Nipped up to Schlenkerla - one Seidla was excellent but very crowded with sightseers so made do with that. Tuesday was Tag des Bieres - pretty much as usual, with Frank & Robert in ceremonial attire. Following correspondence here re Klosterbraeu, tried a Schwaerzla, quite tasty and much more highly carbonated than the limp Braunbier that I had in their Stube. It was ok if not a little uninteresting, specially compared to the many dark beers that are appearing in the UK nowadays. Then headed to Spezial to meet up the usual suspects and ending up, by tradition, in the 'Western Bar' in Faessla, with Frank and Grigor. A good time was had by all, I believe. The weather is lovely at the moment but turning cooler and wetter on Friday. This is expected to last for a week or so and the forecast for Prague is pretty similar. Shame.
Huh! Have you been looking at Blackhatwetter.com Barry? Normal De weather stations show reasonable weather next week. Ie 17c and sunny spells.
Yeah the forecasts I'm seeing late next week and beyond look pretty nice. Although it's too early to tell and I will check out Blackhatwetter.com to balance out my expectations.
I’m really not sure about this smokiness in the U Barry... you should have tried the rauchbier in Klosterbrau.
Maybe see you tomorrow, if you see my message.
Didn't we used to kick the idea around of smokiness in the U coming from latent smokiness in the plumbing or summat?
Good Lord...make that "Didn't we use to kick ..."! The correct usage of "used to" in both contexts was always lots of fun with my pupils...and here I got it wrong!
I am told by reliable sources (those present at Tag) that the recipe for Spezial u has changed a little and that the slight smokiness is deliberate. You'll have to try for yourself. Blackhatwetter, Andy, that's nearly up to your normal standard! Seriously, I use Wetter.de and it's usually pretty accurate. Forecast for Friday & Saturday is around 13 - 15 c, climbing to around 16 - 18 by late next week. That's not terrible but I prefer current 22 - 25 c, specially in Keller eves.
Still, it is spring, not summer! I've been told last summer here was quite extreme indeed. And the weather this past week or so has been spectacular, at least over here.
Not sure when I'll be back in Franken to try any Bamberger beer. Not sure I want to return, TBH. It has naught to do with any dislike of Franken, rather, I might find I miss my old life there too much. You can't go back and all that sort of thing.
I can understand that Nick, I have similar feelings about Ireland, although I love the country.
It was hard returning to Oregon for the first time in a decade in 2015. Mostly because of how miserably over-crowded the coast and the Portland metro area have become, but also how things have changed otherwise. And how we've changed after living abroad.
There's a psychological syndrome known as "repatriation syndrome" or "reverse culture shock", which explains some of what I went through when I was in Nevada last year.
Your situation is undoubtedly made worse by your loss. That you keep going as you have is an inspiration, Barry.
Wilkommen zurück auf den Kontinent! Where are you staying, Barry? Me, I'm stuck in Laurensberg, Aachen with doggoes and Missus and a mystery viral lung infection. Can barely get up and walk around the flat without coughing.
Mrs and I are barely drinking any beer at all these days. I did find some Franconian ones at the Getränke nearest us last week though:
Now, I realise some feathers might get ruffled here. Firstly, yes, I know, Gutmann ain't fränkisch. It is niederbayerisch. But it's better than anything from Oberbayern, innit?
Secondly, I know: Why should Mahr's U be priced higher than the venerable Oberailsfelder nectar? Please, people, I had nothing to do with the pricing here. Interestingly, the astonishingly good Weizenbock is priced the same as other offerings from Gutmann...I was tempted to take home a crate/rack/case/Kiste to get the bonus glass, but Mrs would have had me hide if I had done so.
TOPIC DRIFT AWAY FROM FRANCONIAN BEER
Whilst we can rightfully hold the German health care system up as a stellar improvement in social justice (or whatever) over those of more ...shall we say...capitalist-oriented countries... the reduced hours that doctors keep makes it difficult to get things done as well as one might like, even with premium "private" health insurance, which gives one preferential treatment over patients with cheap, state-supported insurance.
Meh...whatever...my cough seems to be getting better.
TOPIC DRIFT FURTHER AWAY FROM FRANCONIAN BEER
Also still stuck here without an automobile, aside from Mrs's. The saga of the importation of my 2001 Toyota Sequoia from the US continues. I failed to consider whether or not Sequoias were ever sold in the EU. I assumed it would have been (why not?), and so getting the necessary headlights and reflectors would be no problem, like it was with my 99 Volvo, which I had brought over from Orygun.
There are differences between NA and EU specs for headlights, blinkers, and reflectors, which nearly always need to be modified or replaced when shipping cars between the continents.
Whoopsie...apparently, Toyota never DID sell the Sequoia over here. As such, Toyota never manufactured EU-approved headlights for it. The Toyota 4x4 specialist who's been working on it for me in Valkenburg, NL (just over the border from Aachen), found that Tacoma headlights match those of the Sequoia, and ordered a set. But then...there is no EU insignia in them, so...nope, they won't be accepted by German TÜV/DMV/MOT. He is working on his connections with Toyota in NL though, who may then get me in touch with Toyota in Germany, who may well have some pull with TÜV/DMV/MOT to get me an exception.
Here's one for sale in Germany, a 2004, which is technically the same as my 2001:
https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=270885614 . This suggests that it is somehow do-able.
Sadly, if it were a 1999 or older, rather than a 2001, I would be able to get a grandfather clause approval for the headlights, as some technical/legal change occured that year. Fascinatingly, the Dutch version of TÜV/DMV/MOT WOULD approve the non-EU-conform headlights -- so in the worst case, I could theoretically sell it to someone in the NL, or I could get it approved if I had a Dutch address.
It's surprising that there would be no EU-level of enforcement of EU standards for this. If that's the correct way to describe the situation, anyway.
the low price of the Gutmann Weizenbock is maybe an error or misunderstanding of the shop. P.e. in the Gutmann pub in Eichstätt the wheatbeer has a price of 3,10 € and the Weizenbock 3,70%.
Titting (Gutmann) belongs to Oberbayern.
Titting is in Oberbayern, not Niederbayern? I thought it was so great that the best Weizenbier(s) come from NOT-Oberbayern.
(I used to think it was in Franken.)
Well, Titting belongs to Oberbayern since 1972 only. Most of the Kreis Eichstätt belonged to Mittelfranken until then and the culture is Franconian.
Ah, the despised county/district re-mapping of 1972 again! Thanks J.
Here's a bit of how we celebrated it...Crystal my bitch pup's birthday party:
I drank some bottled Muehlen Koelsch and maybe also some Bitburger.
4 Day stay in Oberfranken is coming around May twentyeth. Any breweries still have seasonals heller Bock/Mai Bock on then? Any recommendations? Doing my top 10 spots since I have a friend WHO is new in the area coming with me. But would love to try some new ones as I havent been in the area this time of year before.
Unfortunately they are not common. Only ones I've had are from Hummel in Merkendorf and Moenchsambach which I had a Cafe Abseits. I thought both were excellent and I'm looking forward to at least drinking the one from Hummel next week.
Abseits has got one on tap from Brauerei Meinel right now. Not sure for how long though? Gerhard may have some other suggestions. Seems like slim pickings though for Maibocks.
Göller (Drosendorf), has an Anstich this friday.
Kundmüller also has multiple anstich including Maibock this friday. Beers on are: Weiherer Bock, Weizenbock, Rauchbock and Rolator Doppelbock
Sauer Roßdorf also has a Maibock anstich comming up.
I believe that there was a Maibock anstich in the Pelican last night. I was otherwise engaged.
The new brewery in Melkendorf also has a Anstich on May 11th but since Mads won't be there the 20th I figured it won't work out.
I didn't know Sauer has a Maibock. Good to know. Thanks.
meant to see won't be there *until the 20th.
Sauer...which Sauer? I don't see a reference to Sauer above...?
Never mind...saw it. Rossdorf.
30. April - Nikl
Kim, I had the Dunkler bock late december a few years ago at the gaststatte. Very nice chewy one. It's probably that one again , right? They don't brew a heller bock, is that correct? Would love to try their rauch. Have had a good rustic, but slightly tired lagerbier there and a massive diacetyl bomb of a kellerbier. So I guess it varies a lot there.
Only a minority of franconian breweries offer a pale spring bock. Some breweries offer instead p.e. a red spring bock (Greifenklau) or wheat bocks (after ashwednesday). You can say the breweries hesitate to offer spring bocks or brew not so many liters because they fear warm weather. Or they name it Maibock but launch these beers in February, March or April.
Kundmüller offers a pale bock, which is available the whole year, and a seasonal Rauchbock, brewed in last automn, and a wheat bock. Maybe strong ales are available, brewed together with Fat Head.
The Cafe Abseits taps now Meinel-Bräu Maischätzla, a modern spring bock hopped with
Comet, Spalt Spalter und Ahtanum, very fruity (IPL)
In May we tap the Mönchsambacher Maibock, then change to Hummel-Bräu Maibock.
Will def go to both Hummel and Zehendner and Abseits for sure. The Meinel is very nice, Gerhard. Had it a couple of years ago at the brewery. The most difficult question to answer, since I know its probably a question of when it runs out, but how long does zehendner, rossdorf and hummel normally have their bock on. Will I have a fair chance to catch any May 18th?
Breweries to visit: Only 1 new so far
Scheubel Sternbrau (New)
Klosterbrau( Only cause of new rauchbier)
Goller Drosendorf (Wanna try their lager/pils)
Just missing the point. By a mile.
What do you mean?
I think he means that rushing from pub to pub is not the best way to enjoy Franken beer culture. I know that it's tempting when you can only enjoy Franken for a few days (been there etc) but far better to set a long term goal of enjoying a limited number of places in depth. I've been coming here for more than a decade but today was the first time I've visited Schlusselfeld and Untergreuth, both off which were lovely. Super beer (so different!) And great atmosphere. Much better than racing around the country. Maybe I'm getting old or is it mature? Anyway, thanks Jason and Beth, great afternoon.
My pleasure, it’s always good to be able to help long term visitors and friends reach a few ‘hard to reach’ places.
Point is, we had 2 seidlas in each brewery and mentioned the beer once or twice in each pub. That was it. As Barry wrote, both were very good, but I’ll be damned if I’m going to compare and give them a score. I’d rather enjoy the atmosphere and company, and settle in for a few seidlas. Each to their own, it’s a free world, and my opinion is just that. But you won’t get a many people who know the region or it’s culture better than me, if I may be so bold.
I forget where I met Mads...Roppelt's Keller? I suspect he's not new to Franconia or its beer culture, since he lives in a neighboring country and has been drinking beer a while, and is not a young kid. Who else was there...the Danish Formula One guy, right? Was a very nice short session...I wouldn't say that they couldn't have gotten an appreciation for the Bierkellerkultur there that day.
AFA sitting in a place for hours and soaking up the culture...meh. Been there, done that. There are precious few places I could imagine sitting around in for more than an hour or two. BUT THAT'S JUST ME!!!!
Me, well, I've kind of gone all over the place with beery interests. I was a star homebrewer in Oregon back in the 90's and judged beer along side Fred Eckhardt and Michael Jackson (both RIP), after having been clean and sober from age 17 to 27. Then Mrs & I took our first European trip to Brugge for 10 days, mainly for the specialist beer cafe culture in like 1999, and within 5 years uprooted ourselves to Franconia for a new European way of life, of which the Bierkultur was, yes, a big part.
Fred Eckhardt...What a life he lived.
Then discovering proper cask ale on trips to England & Wales, taking up homebrewing again to brew Boy's Bitter, &c, which I couldn't get locally, and eventually now basically being done with beer.
Yes, it's all about what people want to make of their precious time off, hobbies, and interests. I've never understood the near hostility that some people have to the ratebeerians. It's just a hobby!
I have been looking at places to visit on the last day of my trip. I have a night flight out of Nurnberg as usual,and Ammerndorf has struck me as a possibility. their website does not mention a Gasttate but Juergen has given it a thumbs up review on here so I presume they have one Any thoughts/ opinions?
Btw Fred when I click on the link to their website it directs to Faessla! strange.
I visited Ammerndorf briefly with Juergen years ago and the gastatte across the street was not open. So we bought some bottles from the brewery direct.
However the breweries website does have a link to their Brauerei Gasthof which is across the street so it appears to be an option:
Yea that seems to be the brewery tap. But guess what Tuesday bloody ruetag!
Back to the drawing board.
Grafenberg? Lindenbrau is open on Tuesdays.
A good option mark. Do you think we will stop there on the road trip?
Possibly. Hoffman is a definite. We'll decide over a seidla from there.
Now I remember it (!), Hoffman was good; friendly, nice beer.
Funny Biergarten though, IIRC, a bit stinky -- Schweine.
Is Krug Geisfeld still closed?
Recently heard from the brewer at Metzgerbrau (who lives in Geisfeld) that Krug is looking to resume brewing soonish. Not sure where it would be sold, as they don't plan to run a pub by themselves anymore.
also heard this, but nothing has changed for now.
Funny ... Who should be "the brewer at Metzgerbräu"? As far as I know, Manfred Reichert, of course, still lives in Uetzing, at his brewery ...
Could be Franken Maigl ?
Yes you are right. Thank you!
You learn something every day ...
Yep, he's brewing at Metzgerbrau atm (at least part-time)
They closed? Sad! When?
Late last year. At the time it was said he had cancer. Now he doesn’t but and wanted to sell if all for 600€k. Now he wants to rent the pub out and he’ll brew for them. Children don’t want anything to do with it. He’s done this before so he may well decide to open again,
But this is just what I’ve heard. So could also be rumour.
Cancer can go into remission by itself, and also be falesly diagnosed. Doctors are only human. Dad's career in medical physics taught us that much.
Anyway, not that strange a story considering other things that happened in 2018.
Much nicer location than that other brewery in town.
Speaking of which, what's the current deal with inliner/tank dispense at the Griess Keller? He switched from barrels to the tank a couple of years ago, IIRC, with a chilled Anhaenger parked outside the Kellerhaus.
I never did figure out the logisitics of what happens when a 1000L tank runs dry, though I think I asked Franz Roppelt about it. I tended to drink too much back then though, and don't remember what he said he does. Does he haul the empty tank to the brewery, replace inliners, fill the new one, and haul the tank back to the Keller?
If so, what happens if this occurs during operating hours? I want to say he told me he tried to time it so that that would not happen, but again, too much Kellerbier fogs my memory. (Or was it my head injury from a year ago on the 23rd fogging this? Probably not.)
Is the same long-hair dude running the Griess Keller? We always liked that couple. Man of few words, woman of good, earthy looks.
(Schoene Gruesse an deine Eltern, uebrigens! LG von der Becki auch.)
Yeah I think the same dude is running the Griess Keller. At least I think he was there last summer. Yes man of few words but good sense of humour.
Oh and yes it must have been the head injury. Don't ever blame the beer.
I've naively been planning a brief Franken trip next Friday-Saturday-Sunday. Not noticing it's the Easter weekend.
Will do some phone calls later, but is there a ~ general consenus if breweries/taverns will be open?
In my experience, a lot of plsces have limited opening on Karfreitag, usually open for lunch/dinner (traditional day for families to eat out) and then close in the evening. Saturday usually seems to be ok but Sunday is fairly variable!
As you say, best to check by phone before travelling a long distance - also a lot of places have fairly good websites that proivde details of opening times, Urlaub, etc.
It affects me as well because I arrive in Franken on Easter Sunday!
I've had the opposite experience. Done a few full day brewery crawls on Karfreitag. All busy and open.
The battle of Schwarze hut beginnt!
I've called a few breweries and it seems you're right. All bracing for busy & entertaining days.
Spezial and hoelzlein are 2 that are shut on Karfreitag for example. So as always just call ahead.
Where will you be heading friday?
Looking to spead some of these over Friday/Saturday and maybe Sunday morning.
Zehendner, Knoblach, Schroll, Griess, Roppelt (Trossenfurt), Gradl, Heckel, Meister, Lieberth, Roppelt, Schlenkerla, Spezial
So far only Spezial seems to be closed (Friday).
Cool, we might run in to eachother. I'm doing these this easter.
Schwanen Bräu Ebermannstadt
Drei Kronen Memmelsdorf
Drei Kronen Scheßlitz
Wow, ambitious list!
Good reminder to visit Penning & Hennemann, have not managed it yet. I should have some clearer plans in a few days and could meet for a beer! How do you travel?
Worth remembering that cycling under the influence is treated the same as driving here. And I presume you’re very fit as Franconia isn’t flat and that’s a big itinerary, in fact I think it’s ridiculous (not being rude, just realistic). Personally I would spend more time in less places, but that’s just my feeling. I did brewery ticking in my time but I wouldn’t recommend it, one misses the nuances and wider beer culture that is so beloved here.
Note that Fischer doesn’t brew anymore, the beers are brewed elsewhere. No idea if there remains a tap. Meister brewery tap is closed. Hartmann has stopped brewing themselves.
Thanks for the advice Jason. I have visited the places several of times before and done them all by bike. I have done this sort of thing for the past ten years, so I know all about what I'm doing. Cheers :-)
Fischer had I tap when I visited in 2017. But they stopped brewing themselves? Didn't know Hartmann had stopped either? Hartmann Würgau? I've read that Meister has a frigde in the yard for walkers and cyclists like me.
Yes to all. Never had a beer from the fridge at Meister but I’ve heard they have a fridge.
Or Zapfhahn in Bamberg have it from the bottle.
Isn't cycling alcohol tolerance limit higher? I was under assumption that it is 1,6 promile, which I would say is A LOT, so you wouldn't be cycling anyway.
I am also sometimes making long-distance trips in Franken (usually 100 km and more daily), while I get like 10 stops in breweries during the day, sometimes having a seidla, sometimes sharing one with my wife... and at the end of the day, I feel fresh (like with 0,0)
Which is exactly my experience. I'd rather go for a ride on the bike to burn some of it off, rather than stay put and build up the alcohol level.
Another reason is the beautiful landscape and riding through Franconia in good weather is such a nice experience and a big part of why I revisit so often.
And it’s why I love living here :)
Whatever you enjoy, just stay safe.
Update from my trip.
1. Fischer makes contract brewing now (Lohn sud).
2. Meister did indeed have a fridge and it worked. They have a charming beer garten next to the Gasthaus which treated us nicely.
3. Hartmann still brews. Confirmed while visiting. Both beers we had were in excellent shape btw. Felsentrunk was dry with a touch of smoke. Zwickl was rural, dry and slightly hoppy.
Hartmann have ceased brewing themselves according to Frank Wetzel. I would take whatever they say with a pinch of salt, it’s common for a brewery whose beers are contract brewed to overlook the details when asked.
Agreed on the charm of Meister's creek-side Biergarten. One of the very few times I have ever been there was with Uncle Jimbo, many years ago, where I ate and drank too much on a sunny afternoon before I had to go to work back in Erlangen. It did have a negative impact on my work performance.
Any news on the situation @ Weber? Have they taken up brewing again?
As far as I know, no. But I’ve heard different stories from different people. But I generally go with franks’, and if I recall correctly, they haven’t resumed. Although that may have changed.
Not particularly helpful but if I remember I’ll ask frank on Friday.
Thanks, greatly appreaciated.
I just happened to notice today while looking at the event page on FB that the new brewery in Melkendorf will have a stand at the event.
I've been wanting to try their beer so good news.
Not more beer!
So did anyone go to the Bierkulturfest? The Fränkischer Tag has a nice report: https://www.infranken.de/regional/bamberg/bierliebhaber-trotzen-kaelte;art212,4209101
Here's a thing - Mark just emailed me to suggest that we might go to Hummel on Thursday, May 2, as he wanted to try the Maibock (I presume that it'll still be there on May 2). So, I had a look at their website to find a litte message:
Am Karfreitag, den 19.04.2019 öffnet die Gaststätte Dillig in Laubend um 16 Uhr zum letzten Mal in der Saison ihre Türen.
I've never heard of this place (Laubend is the terminus of the 907/917)?
Wir freuen uns auf euch
Seems to at Zückshuter Str. 16, Laubend. Laubend being a village just to the west of Merkendorf.
If you search for "laubend" on Google Maps you should find it. Seems more like a village hall according to the few photos people have posted.
its a ‘pub’that doesn’t open that often. I’m not sure if the Hummel family run it or not as the brewery is closed that day.
According to the fraenkische-brauereien.com website, there was a Brauerei Dillig in Laubend which closed in 1967.
Hummel delivers the beer to Laubend. If I recall correctly, the pub there is open only in winter. I think that there was some connection to Julius Hummel's (owner & brewery master) brother, who runs Laubend pub in winter, and Hummel's Keller in summer (Keller - not any more, I think that it has been closed like 2 years ago)
That's a great website - absolutely intriguing., I could spend hours looking through it! Just a couple of quick looks confirm that there was another brewery in Drosendorf (walked past it loads of times, not sure whether it's still there) and that the Gasthof Neuner in Ebensfeld, next to my Fewo, closed for a few years and now for sale, about €500,000, if I remember, was once the:
Brewery Neuner "Zum weißen Lamm" - 1735 to 1982
The fraenkische-brauereien.com website is very good, but I would be careful with it as there seems to be some issues with the existing breweries section. For instance, Brauerei zum Eckela in Graefenberg and Goetschel-Braue in Bayreuth both seem to have closed decades ago. Under Bamberg it lists Robesbierre which I don't think has brewed in years, but leaves out the brewpub Kronprinz which has been around since 2016.
Robesbierre si basically a private home brewery, albeit an extremely professional one, operated by a teacher of brewing.for his own consumption. Last time that I spoke to him, he was still brewing but it was a year ago.
I assume that Kronprinz is the Kaiserdom offshoot? Anyone been there?
Yes, when it opened. Not been since. Don’t bother Barry, the beer may be ok or even excellent, but it’s craft stuff. Prices to match.
I've been to Kronprinz. Food was good, but half of the US inspired beers had old hops or were oxidized.
Robert still brews at robesbierre but as Barry says he’s a home brewer. His beer is excellent but unless you’re on the inside you’re struggling ;)
Kronprinz isnt in bamberg, it’s in Gaustadt. Small detail, but it’s not bamberg.
Well, technically since the early 1990's Gaustadt has been part of Bamberg. You might as well say Franconia is not part of Bavaria
If you want to exclude Kaiserdom from Bamberg breweries I guess I won't argue too much.
Kronprinz is fine, you just have to forget you are in Bamberg and pretend you're in Munich or Berlin -- or LA. I guess it does have the best Bamberg brewed IPA, if you want to go there...
Probably not, it's harder for me find no IPA at the moment. If that makes sense?
"Kronprinz isnt in bamberg, it’s in Gaustadt. Small detail, but it’s not bamberg."
Didn't Wunderberg used to be a village outside of Bamberg? Times change.
True. On both statements.
Still, you ask a local and they’ll differentiate between Bamberg and Gaustadt
1972 the village Gaustadt was incorporated into the city Bamberg. 91% of the inhabitants disliked this area reform.
It was a political decision in the interest of the ruling party CSU. The CSU wanted to destroy the majority of the SPD in Gaustadt, a village with many blue collar workers and a majority of the SPD and a "red" major.
Other villages in the surrounding of Bamberg were spared (Bischberg, Memmelsdorf, Pettstadt and the city Hallstdt and so), because they had majors from the CSU.
As a result the brewery Kaiserdom won their location Bamberg.
Now a big part of the University of Bamberg is loated in Gaustadt (ERBA island).
Very interesting history, Gerhard, thanks! I'm not sure I understand what a "major" is though...could you explain that? Majority?
I think that Gerhard means 'mayor', Nick.
Sorry. My mistake: mayor
I wasn't sure, because of your mentioning more than one of them in one case, but mayor made sense in the other. No apology necessary!
Of interest to regular users of DB is the news that they are trying to flog off their Arriva subsidy (see http://www.railtechnologymagazine.com/HS2/deutsche-bahn-to-offload-rail-and-bus-operator-arriva-), to try to alleviate debts of €20 billion. Not sure why anyone should want to buy Arriva having suffered their appaling performance in Wales and in the north of England (owners of Northern Rail).
Mind you, things haven't got a lot better since the part publicly -owned Transport for Wales took over last autumn. We've still got the old rolling stock in Arriva colours, though they do seem to have increased the carriage numbers on some busier trains.
I suppose that, given DB's debts, cuts and fare increases are likely in the offing.
According to the VGN website it is possible (on a sunday) to use bus 223 ( which is AST) to visit Weissenohe, Leutenbach and Dietzhof. from Forcheim Bahnhof and return.
I have looked at the pdf flyer for the Forcheim AST and it seems to be a fare of 6+6? for each leg, not sure what that means. Any thoughts on whether a Tagesticket plus would cover these trips? any input gratefully received.
No the TagesTicket plus is not enough. For the journey with the AST you pay the regular VGN tariff according to the valid VGN tariff zone plan plus an AST surcharge. This surcharge amounts again the double VGN tariff. So you have to pay a total of three times the price of the actual price for the tour from A to B. If a TagesTicket plus already exists, the AST costs per track twice the fare of the desired route from A to B.
I hope that is reasonably understandable ...
In the meantime, the AST in the district of Forchheim is by far the most expensive Anrufsammeltaxi (AST) in the entire VGN.
I get the idea of it now and you are right it is expensive. I have used the one in Bamberg and the ticket I already had covered the cost, just had to sign a form for the taxi driver.
I will cost the whole trip out and make up my mind as to whether its worth it.
Uncle Jimbo and I shared normal taxis a couple of times from Stiebarlimbach to Hirschaid. I forget...20 EUR? That was for a van though, with my bike, IIRC. And quite a few years ago. But...flexibility is the advantage of just a normal taxi, for those of us who don't plan out the details so well.
Yea,I have used taxis a few times.weisen to stublang,can't recall how much but not hideous. If I can persuade others to share taxis are a good option.
I've been to the front door of Dietzhof but it was Urlaub - even Juergen's silver tongue could persuade the woman to let us in. Leutenbach also the same night. Nice but not sensational. The first time that Juergen had Helles there, I seem to recall.
Yes, worth considering. When are you actually in town Andy?
Thursday 2/5 till wed 8/5 Barry.Dietzhof seems interesting judging by their website they seem to have strong view's on tradition etc. Hopefully see you on mark and Dorothy's road trip.
I viisited Dietzhof with Juergen years ago (2008 I think) and it is a reallly nice, traditional pub and I really liked the dark beer. Would have been happy to spend a lot more time there.
Bergkerwa Wirt refused permission to build brewery:
Summary for those who des Deutschen nicht mächtig sind:
Junior boss of the Entlas-Keller in Erlangen, Vincenz Schiller, is a trained brewer and wanted to open a small-scale nano brewery but the council refused permission on the grounds that the Keller is protected as a historical structure and Schiller only has the right to use it as a beer storage, not as a brewery.
The Entlas-Keller sold Kitzmann beer until the brewery closed. In future it is serving Mahrs U, Hoffman lager and Gutmann weizen. Kulmbacher will be supplying "Kitzmann Festbier" for the Kerwa.
Schiller is going ahead with installing conditioning tanks, which will be used to lager Mahrs beer, and hopes that once the council sees that this does not damage the historical structure they will let him have a brewery too.
Maybe they’ll improve the U!!! Still, not sure even that would lure me to Erlangen. Kulmbacher Bier certainly won’t.
I have never visited the town,only the bahnhof. not sure why? Just never have.
Suffice to say Erlangen is not a tourist destination. Which is one reason why Mrs & I loved our 13 years there so well.
AFA the Bergkerwa goes...it really is worth a quick walkthrough one afternoon. It is a lovely setting, overlooking the city, just because it's what so many Franconians do. Get out before the crowds and stupidity though, duh. No, it's not Annafest, but it is part of the local Bierkultur. And it's an architectually impressive lineup of old Keller(s) in a hillside.
Been there with Chris Kane...who else? Uncle Jimbo?
Actually, the Bergkerwa beer was one of Kitzmann's worst. The Kulmbacher will be an improvement...hopefully. The food at Entla's Keller is good. No, not cheap, but there it is.
I have just come across something that you all might find interesting and comment provoking.
its probably easyest to have a look at the site yourselves. I for one had no idea this place even existed.
I've known about this place for a while and visited a few times but I can see why non residents wouldn't know. I'm not really a fan, kind of a poor home brewers club with hop/additive experimentation of 1 beer creating various 'varieties'. The garden itself is lovely and last year they had a 'craft beer fest' where they did at least have beer from proper brewers. They had Monchsambach and a couple of other very good local breweries present so I would recommend a visit during this festival.
On other occasions... meh.
I guessed that was the idea regarding the beers,I wonder if Fassla or whoevers beer they are using as a base have any thoughts about it?
I will walk in and have snout about if I am in the bahnhof area, I take it you also know about the zweiblefest in early september Jason? That looks like it could be worth a look, lots of onions and beer. what could go wrong!!
When I was at one of their "fests" last year the base beers were from Keesmann.
Yea, that makes sense Fred. It would have to be a relatively "bland" pils type beer to make the whole thing work.
I was thinking of taking my group here in October, but sounds like it might not be worth bothering.
Well, I personally trust Jason's judgement on such matters.But you could perhaps recky the place before committing to a group visit.
whilst I’m always happy to give my opinion I would rather people tried things out themselves, I don’t want to assume we have the same thoughts.
Oh and the zwiebeltreterfest is only in name; Bambergers are known as zwiebeltreters, especially in the garden quarter where this fest is held. Lots of onions grown in bamberg.
Of course Andrew you could bring your own onions, there will be beer ;)
Going back a bit...
The beer desert between Erlangen and Nuernberg is called Knoblauchsland, or garlic land, on account of all the garlic (and onions) grown there. It was quite pungent when I used to cycle to work & back in summer...lots and lots of aromatic fields there.
Understood, merely stating that I was happy to trust your opinion on this subject. It is of course for others to decide whose judgement or opinions to trust. The website appears to suggest that onions in various forms will be evident.
Andy, I choose to trust your opinion when it comes to tongue and groove. I know not relevant to beer but just saying ....
In Franken Mark all things re Brauerei gastatte are tongue and groove related as I am sure you understand.
I note that the memmelsdorf bierfest is on 3/5 until 5/5, has anyone been to this?
I have watched a couple of video clips and it doesnt seem too packed.any comments/ opinions chaps?
Never been to that one.
Good time of yeat though, so worth thinking about for another year.
Yep. Memorable for several reasons, mainly that it came after walking with our Dudley colleagues from Hoenig and before ending up in Catweazle's Castle. Over imbibed and saved by my Cape Cod friends!
Otherwise, it was very good, not too crowded and loads (too much) of good beer. We'll be there this year but without the preliminaries. Have I got all that correct, Mark?
Yup you got it right Barry. It's a nice festival and one of the reasons Dorothy and I are going to be in Bamberg that particular weekend. So we're planning on going to that Saturday the 4th. You definitely should join us Andy.
Yes, Andy, you should join us, maybe provide a sobering influence - or maybe not.
Moi! A sobering influence. You are more likely to find tongue and groove in Michael gives front room!
Aargh! He mentioned the G word.
Only just read your post below Mark. I will be in Franken. if juergen is not able to go I would be keen to join you if you would be willing?
Absolutely! See you then
I'd like to join you, if it's possible for me. A lot of work on the railway on Saturdays, as you guys know.
The plan is to do this on Friday, May 3rd. Is that a holiday for you?
Nope. 1st of May would be one. But I can get out of my office at about 1 p. m., I guess. Would be at Gräfenberg at about 2 p. m.
That would work. Now I’ve got to look into getting a bigger vehicle. As of now we’ve got 6 of us
Ah, problem. I couldn't drive home then. Well, enjoy the walk.
Juergen, I'm not sure what you're trying to say here?
I'll message you off to the side to coordinate. It would be good to have you along.
And just to recap. The plan is we'll be renting a car for the day and Dorothy has volunteered to be the designated driver for us. I've done some research today and found we can rent a 7 passenger van from Sixt for a few extra bucks over the 5 seater car. So not a problem. We'll manage. The only issue Juergen is where we'd need to drop you off afterwards. Forchheim bahnhof would work.
It looks like as of now we have:
Dorothy and myself
and hopefully Juergen
along for the ride.
If you all confirm for me asap then I'll get the van reserved.
Wow, what a crew. Have you spoken to Isa? She was talking about coming down but needed to discuss dates, etc., with you.
Yeah I've talked to them about a month or so ago and they said they could not make it as they had other plans.
I confirm mark,and willing as always to chip in with the cost.
Thanks gents! I'll let you know re: chipping in towards cost via email
Should be fine, but I can't confirm 100% as I need to be flexible currently with other priorities. Appreciate the offer and I can confirm a few weeks before when I know more about whats what.
We can keep in touch offline Mark.
I just read that you're going to start at 10:30 already. I can leave work earliest at twelve and would be at Forchheim at about 1:30 to 2:00. Mhm. Can we solve this? Otherwise I simply can't join you.
Confirming I'm not going.
Does anybody know anything about the "new" brewery in Melkendorf, I.e. opening times e.t.c.? And: is this beer available in the former (ugly ;-)) brewery tap. Or: is the tap still open or permanently closed?
They use Facebook
The building is in the ownership of the vilkage.
A group of homebrewers under the leadership of Christian Grasser, a brewemaster and brother of tthe owner of Grasser in Huppendorf, has repaired the brewery. They brew sometimes. They offer single days for drinking there and buying barrels ("Hausbräufassen").
The next date: tomorrow, Samstag 23.03 v. 13-16 Uhr
Bockbieranstich: 11 may
The brewpub is closed. The community has the idea to reopen the place. An architect develops a plan.
They also have a website:
Just coming to the end of my month visiting my rellys in Brisbane. Not sure how I'll get used to 10C in Colwyn Bay after 30c but I'm looking forward to some decent beer! As forseen, the beer here has been fizzy and very cold, and pretty expensive. Last pint that I bought (Cricketers Pale Ale) was equivalent to £6.86 and so-so, after it has warmed to tasting levels - enough to make a Franconian or even a citizen of Wales weak at the knees! I did find a good brewery in Lobethal in the Adelaide Hills with 3 handpumps but that was the only cask beer in a month. Still, life isn't just cask beer (???) and there are plenty of compensations in the climate and environment. Only 4 weeks and I'll be in Franken (then Prague). It's a good life if you don't weaken.
Oz still a beer dessert then? Rumours of better things in NZ. As long as you like your beer with too many hops in it, lol.
Dessert of desert? ;-)
So in the course of banter in various taverns in Aachen, I got a feel for what people know (or don't) about Franconia, its beer, and Bierkellerkultur. And that is, not much.
Which I guess isn't that surprising. Does the average German from one part of the country go to another part of the country on holiday? I would suggest not so much, since Germans are supposedly the world champion international tourists, meaning, they leave their country on holiday more than people of any other country.
Why that would be...well, they get lots of paid days off (look it up), earn a lot (ditto), and have apparently always done this to some extent or other more than others. And they are simply fairly well-adjusted people (3 years of Kindergarten, manslaughter rate 1/6th of the US, independent of weapon type), genuinely interested in experiencing new places and cultures.
Anyway, I've been doing my part, recommending Forchheim and the fraenkische Scwheiz to any and all who will listen, going on about how great the diversity of rustic sorts of beer is (hopefully not to the point of becoming the proverbial beer bore that can plague British pubs) and of course that it runs for maybe EUR4 / Mass...in the country anyway. (What WAS the price at Roppelt's last year, my first year away since 2005?)
And then there's the food. A massive slab of Schaeuferla (which some have heard of) for ridiculously cheap, same goes for Haxe. And Nuernberger Bratwuerstchen...there's a tavern on the Marktplatz that sells a half dozen with sides for nearly EUR15 in Aachen.
The story from a few years back, about how a certain employee of the fraenkische Schweiz tourist board had suggested that taverns might want to ask for a Euro or two more for the Schaeufe(r)la to help keep places in business, and the backlash among the common folk...anyway, Geiz ist geil. Thriftiness is tremendous.
But in general, people here just don't seem to think of the region at all, let alone as a holiday destination. At least the ones I've been running into, swilling their filthy Bitburger for EUR6 a litre or more.
IMHO it is good, that people in the German badlands concerning beer, that means every region outside of Franconia, do not know what Roppelt or Witzgall means... Imagine a Bier-Disneyland in Franconia, overcrowded by thirsty and cheery Germans from all parts of the country - even from Saxonia - "enjoying" cheap beers and even cheaper "Hax'n"? Who really wants that? Better they drink their lousy Koelsch in - yes - Cologne and pay 1.80 € for a very small amount of "Bier".
Take a trip down the Rhine some day, visit the picturesque towns by the river, experience the streets lined with tourist tat and the enormous cafe terraces rivalling a Munich beer garden in size, all packed with daytrippers having coffee and cake (sonn- und feiertags nur Kännchen) … and be happy that so few are aware of the delights of Franken.
Excellent points. Ah well, I don't think one lone voice in the wilderness (me) will make much of a difference. Nor are the notoriously stubborn (yes, I'm using that word, sue me...but I don't mean it in a negative way) Germans likely to change their ideas about where to go on holiday...IIRC Franz Roppelt does Spain every year.
But then...I thought with the breweries dying out...don't we WANT them to get as much business as possible? Don't we WANT more Germans to come enjoy Franconia? Torn. I'm waffling here.
I'd rather have the places crowded with Germans than Yanks and Britons, I guess.
A bit of "not in my backyard" maybe?
At any rate, it's fun explaining to Germans about one of the nicest bits of their lovely country which they'd never thought of before.
I would question the connection between breweries 'dying out' and custom. Sure, more money would make the situation better for some, but lack of profit is not the prime driver as far as I am aware. Lack of a successor, service personnel and some legal changes have caused more problems.
Hard to quantify and just a personal gut feel, but if profit was a problem prices would have been increased much more than they have.